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Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
23/08/2022 - Climbing
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
18-year-old Australian rock climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has repeated the 9a Pornographie at Céüse in France.
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
23/08/2022 - Alpinism
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
Alpinists Simon Kehrer and Hubert Eisendle from the South Tyrol, Italy, have made the first ascent of 'La Gana tla Pera' on the south face of Neunerspitze / Sasso delle Nove in the Dolomites.
New Gstellihorn climbs in Switzerland by Yannick Glatthard, Jonas Schild
20/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Gstellihorn climbs in Switzerland by Yannick Glatthard, Jonas Schild
Yannick Glatthard and Jonas Schild have established Stiller-Has (280m, 7c+/8a?) and Wilde Has (350m, 7b?) on Gstellihorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland.
Free As Can Be. Mark Hudon, Jordan Cannon and the dream of Freerider on El Capitan
06/08/2022 - Climbing
Free As Can Be. Mark Hudon, Jordan Cannon and the dream of Freerider on El Capitan
The film Free as can be by Samuel Crossley, documenting American climber Mark Hudon's lifelong goal of free climbing El Capitan.
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
04/08/2022 - Climbing
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
Iain Miller introduces the rock climbing on Gola Island in Ireland. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal trad climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs.
Alex Megos frees Ratstaman Vibrations, cool Sharma project at Céüse
01/08/2022 - Climbing
Alex Megos frees Ratstaman Vibrations, cool Sharma project at Céüse
At Céüse in France Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Ratstaman Vibrations, a project bolted by Chris Sharma over a decade ago. The German climber believes the climb checks in the 9b grade range.
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
26/07/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of Nordic Marathon at the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. The 130m line is a combination of different routes and is graded 9b/+
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past difficulties up to VII+, and was freed on 18/06/2022. Zörer...
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
13/07/2022 - Alpinism
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Basque mountaineers Eneko and Iker Pou, together with Peruvian mountaineer  Micher Quito, have made the first ascent of One Push on the SW Face of Pumahuacanca in Peru, describing the 1000m line as 'brutal' and 'the hardest high mountain route of our career.'
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
12/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2022 was won in Chamonix by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Laura Rogora and Taisei Homma won silver, Chaehyun Seo and Sean Bailey bronze.
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
08/07/2022 - Climbing
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
Calvario, one of the historic crags at Arco, Italy
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.

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