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Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin
01/07/2022 - Climbing
Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin
The new climbing series Hidden Gems with Seb Bouin, featuring the crag Thaurac.
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
30/06/2022 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
British rock climber James Pearson has made a swift repeat of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark first ascended by Neil Gresham in 2021. After making a bold 'flash' attempt, Pearson worked the route ground-up before repeating one of Britain’s hardest trad climbs in cold, wet conditions.
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
22/06/2022 - Environment
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
Wildfires raging across Spain have also burnt beneath Oliana, one of the most famous crags in the world.
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
16/06/2022 - Alpinism
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the East Face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
07/06/2022 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their...
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Dolorock 2022: over 200 climbers celebrate in Val di Landro, Dolomites
02/06/2022 - Events
Dolorock 2022: over 200 climbers celebrate in Val di Landro, Dolomites
The Dolorock Climbing Festival that took place from 27 - 29 May in Val di Landro / Höhlensteintal proved to be a great success, with over 200 climbers taking part in the great climbing meeting of the Dolomites.
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
31/05/2022 - Climbing
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
Last October in Val di Tacca in Italy’s Tuscan-Emilian Apennine National Park Michele Caminati made the first ascent of Space Invaders, a new trad climb graded E7 6c. The report and video of the 37-year-old climber from Parma.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
25/05/2022 - Events
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
From 27 to 29 May 2022 the 9th Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place in Val di Landro, Italy. Open to all, this is the biggest climbing meeting in the Dolomites, located a stone’s throw from the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
24/05/2022 - Climbing
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
The short film 'The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing' by American filmmaker Keith Ladzinski that explores the history of sport climbing in the Verdon Gorge in France through the eyes of François Guillot, Bruno Clément, Alan Carne, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington, Jonathan Siegrist.
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
23/05/2022 - Interviews
Mathew Wright deciphers Lake District's E11 Lexicon
Interview with Mathew Wright after the 23-year-old British rock climber made the fourth ascent of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark in the Lake District first ascended by Neil Gresham in summer 2021.
Loïc Zehani frees Chikane 9b at Orgon in France
21/05/2022 - Climbing
Loïc Zehani frees Chikane 9b at Orgon in France
At Orgon in France Loïc Zehani has made the first ascent of Chikane, 30 intense moves now graded 9b. In December 2021 the 20-year-old established the hardest route at Buoux, Jusqu'au bout du mond 8c+/9a.