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The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
23/07/2013 - Climbing
The new guidebook by Manolo: In Bilico... suspended between climbing history and the rock climbs in the Primiero Dolomites
A new guidebook by Manolo to the Primiero Dolomites has just been published. A preview to the book and the wizard's latest climb: the first free ascent of Pappagorgia at the crag Bilico in Val Canali, Italy.
Adventure Movie Awards Days at San Candido
18/07/2013 - Events
Adventure Movie Awards Days at San Candido
From 18 - 20 July 20 San Candido (Val Pusteria, Dolomites) will host the first Adventure Days Movie Awards. The program includes the world's 40 best films and documentaries, while special guests include Manolo, Alex Bellini, Danilo Callegari and Michael Wachtler. "A way of being, words by and about Walter...
Steve Bate solo climbs Zodiac on El Capitan
17/07/2013 - Climbing
Steve Bate solo climbs Zodiac on El Capitan
In June Steve Bate from New Zeland repeated the Zodiac up El Capitan in Yosemite. What makes his ascent noteworthy is that Bate is affected by Retinitis Pigmentosa.
Artur Hajzer perishes on Gasherbrum I
11/07/2013 - Alpinism
Artur Hajzer perishes on Gasherbrum I
7 July the 51-year-old great Polish alpinists Artur Hajzer died while falling down the Japanese couloir on Gasherbrum I (8068m).
Thoughts about alpinism, climbing and accidents
08/07/2013 - Alpinism
Thoughts about alpinism, climbing and accidents
Using his own experience as a basis, Elio Bonfanti explores some thoughts about alpinism and climbing and their risks.
A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
27/06/2013 - Climbing
A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
The great enchainment carried out by Italian alpinist Marco Anghileri on 25 June 2013. 5 routes first climbed by Walter Bonatti: on Bastionata del Resegone, Medale, Torre Costanza, Ago Teresita, Magnaghi. All repeated in a single day. Anghileri travelled by bike or on foot, but above all he climbed. His...
Helicopter rescue in the Himalayas, interview with Moro, Folini and Senoner
07/06/2013 - Alpinism
Helicopter rescue in the Himalayas, interview with Moro, Folini and Senoner
In this interview we ask Simone Moro, Maurizio Folini and Armin Senoner to speak about their helicopter rescue operations carried out between April and May this year in the Nepalese Himalayas, about their records but also about the prospects and difficulties of operating on the highest mountains in the world....
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border between Italy's Piedmont and Switzerland's Canton of Valais and the...
Jordan Buys climbs 9a at Malham Cove in England
08/05/2013 - Climbing
Jordan Buys climbs 9a at Malham Cove in England
On 03/05/2013 English climber Jordan Buys repeated Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove, England.
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
06/05/2013 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia and a bit of history: Even heroes feel fear... 30 years later
30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino...
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
11/04/2013 - Climbing
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be...
Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview
26/03/2013 - Interviews
Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview
Interview with American climber Chris Sharma after his repeat of La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana, Spain.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in 1947.
Important new winter additions to Ben Nevis
18/03/2013 - Alpinism
Important new winter additions to Ben Nevis
Two new winter climbs have been added to Ben Nevis in Scotland: Deadly Presence (VIII,7, Iain Small, Doug Hawthorn) and Shooting Star (VI,6, Robin Clothier, Richard Bentley).
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
01/03/2013 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer - thoughts about climbing in Patagonia
The thoughts about alpinism in Patagonia by Hansjörg Auer who this season, apart from establishing a new route up Aguja Guillaumet with Mario Walder, suddenly had to battle hard against the infamous Patagonian storms.