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UIAA cancels last two Ice Climbing World Cups in Russia
26/02/2022 - Competitions
UIAA cancels last two Ice Climbing World Cups in Russia
The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme has announced it has cancelled the last two stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup in Russia. Published below is the official UIAA press release.
IFSC suspends Moscow Boulder and Speed World Cup
25/02/2022 - Competitions
IFSC suspends Moscow Boulder and Speed World Cup
In the wake of Russia's invasion of Ukraine, the International Federation of Sport Climbing has officially suspended the first stages of the Speed and Boulder World Cup 2022, originally scheduled to take place from 1 to 3 April 2022 in Moscow. Published below is the official IFSC press release.
New climb on Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia by Esteban Degregori, Horacio Gratton, Pedro Odell
15/02/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia by Esteban Degregori, Horacio Gratton, Pedro Odell
Interview with Horacio Gratton who from 26 - 27 January 2022 with fellow Argentine mountaineers Esteban Degregori and Pedro Odell made the first ascent of El Zorro y la Rosa (6c+ C1 500m) on the SE face of Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia. The new route leads to the south summit...
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of  Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
10/02/2022 - Alpinism
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
On the 26th of January 2022 Line van den Berg from the Netherlands and Fay Manners from Great Britain have made the first female ascent of 'Phantom Direct', also referred to as 'Via in memoria di Gianni Comino', established in 1985 on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses in...
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon call off Manaslu winter expedition
10/02/2022 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon call off Manaslu winter expedition
The winter expedition to Manaslu led by Simone Moro and Alex Txikon has been called off due to constant snowfall and the elevated risk of avalanches.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler call off Nanga Parbat winter climb
25/01/2022 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler call off Nanga Parbat winter climb
Due to the bad weather conditions the Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse and his German climbing partner David Göttler have called off their expedition which aimed to climb Nanga Parbat in winter.
Manaslu Base Camp partially destroyed by avalanche
11/01/2022 - Alpinism
Manaslu Base Camp partially destroyed by avalanche
The winter expedition to Manaslu led by Simone Moro and Alex Txikon has suffered a minor setback; an avalanche hit and partially destroyed Base Camp. All the members of the expedition are doing well, having previously descended to Samagaon after heavy snowfall.
Luca and Martina Blanchet win Tiro Lead 2021 in Val Sapin, Valle d’Aosta, Italy
16/12/2021 - Climbing
Luca and Martina Blanchet win Tiro Lead 2021 in Val Sapin, Valle d’Aosta, Italy
The Aosta Valley Climbing Club has announced that the siblings from Courmayeur Luca and Martina Blanchet have won the Tiro Leader 2021 competition. The event at the crag La città di Uruk crag in Val Sapin, Italy, involved freeing two difficult sport climbs.
New icefall in Val Veny (Mont Blanc) climbed by Massimo Datrino, Gianluca Marra
03/12/2021 - Alpinism
New icefall in Val Veny (Mont Blanc) climbed by Massimo Datrino, Gianluca Marra
On 01/12/2021 Courmayeur mountain guides Massimo Datrino and Gianluca Marra climbed Cascata del Monzino in Val Veny in the Mont Blanc massif. This drip has probably never been climbed before.
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
22/11/2021 - Climbing
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our article written in conjunction with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday,...
Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
08/11/2021 - Interviews
Janja Garnbret: the first female 8c onsight interview
Interview with Slovenian rock climber Janja Garnbret who just the other day completed the coveted first female 8c onsight with her ascent of Fish Eye at Oliana in Spain. Two days later she doubled her takings by on sighting the 8c American Hustle.
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
05/11/2021 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy
The report by Jacopo Lacher who, at the end of October in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, freed the trad climbs ‘Blood Diamond’ at the crag Diamante and an old project of Adriano Trombetta at the base of Sergent, now called Shikantaza (aka. ‘Il progetto Tromba’).
Toby Roberts repeats Hubble at Raven Tor in England
28/10/2021 - Climbing
Toby Roberts repeats Hubble at Raven Tor in England
16-year-old British rock climber Toby Roberts has repeated Hubble, the milestone sport climb established by Ben Moon in 1990 at Raven Tor, England.
Watch Claudia Ghisolfi climbing Noia at Andonno, Italy’s first 8c+
14/10/2021 - Climbing
Watch Claudia Ghisolfi climbing Noia at Andonno, Italy’s first 8c+
Episode #19 of The Climbing Diaries follows Claudia Ghisolfi and her battle to send Noia at Andonno, the first 8c+ in Italy freed by Severino Scassa in 1993.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.