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New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
15/07/2022 - Alpinism
Cool new Kolosseum multipitch on Hohe Munde in Austria by Egon Egger, Benjamin Zörer
Egon Egger and Benjamin Zörer have made the first ascent of 'Steh auf Gladiator' on Kolosseum on the SW Face of Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria. The 260m route takes an independent line to the right of 'Alte Telfer', past difficulties up to VII+, and was freed on 18/06/2022. Zörer...
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
12/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra win Chamonix World Cup
The third stage of the Lead World Cup 2022 was won in Chamonix by Janja Garnbret from Slovenia and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Laura Rogora and Taisei Homma won silver, Chaehyun Seo and Sean Bailey bronze.
Seb Bouin makes first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Iron Curtain at Flatanger
11/07/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Iron Curtain at Flatanger
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first repeat of Iron Curtain at Flatanger in Norway. First ascended by Adam Ondra in 2013 without kneepads and graded 9b, with kneepads Bouin believes it warrants 9a+.
Natalia Grossman and Yoshiyuki Ogata win Boulder World Cup 2022
26/06/2022 - Competitions
Natalia Grossman and Yoshiyuki Ogata win Boulder World Cup 2022
The final stage of the Boulder World Cup taking place in Innsbruck, Austria, was won by American climbers Natalia Grossman and Colin Duffy. Grossman was crowned season champion, together with Japan's Yoshiyuki Ogata.
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
21/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
The video by Brette Harrington documenting the first ascent of Marc-Andrés Vision, a climb on Torre Egger in Patagonia imagined by Marc-André Leclerc and completed in 2020 by Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
31/05/2022 - Climbing
Space Invaders, Michele Caminati's new trad climb in Val di Tacca, Italy
Last October in Val di Tacca in Italy’s Tuscan-Emilian Apennine National Park Michele Caminati made the first ascent of Space Invaders, a new trad climb graded E7 6c. The report and video of the 37-year-old climber from Parma.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
24/05/2022 - Climbing
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
The short film 'The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing' by American filmmaker Keith Ladzinski that explores the history of sport climbing in the Verdon Gorge in France through the eyes of François Guillot, Bruno Clément, Alan Carne, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington, Jonathan Siegrist.
Rachel Māia: from amputation back to climbing
19/05/2022 - Climbing
Rachel Māia: from amputation back to climbing
The video portrait of New Zealand rock climber Rachel Maia who after a climbing accident decided to have her lower left leg amputated.
New winter climb on Cima Immink, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
10/05/2022 - Alpinism
New winter climb on Cima Immink, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Marco Longo reports about the first ascent, with Pietro Simon, of Scivolo del Riky on Cima Immink, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites. The winter route was dedicated to Riccardo Simon, Pietro's father
Seb Berthe breezes up El Niño on El Capitan in Yosemite
01/05/2022 - Climbing
Seb Berthe breezes up El Niño on El Capitan in Yosemite
Belgian rock climber Sébastien Berthe has made a swift repeat of El Niño on El Capitan, managing to onsight or flash almost all of this classic Huber testpiece in a single day.