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Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
23/12/2020 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees 30-year project on Waidringer Steinplatte, Austria
German rock climber Alexander Huber frees Highway, a 30-year project established by Thomas Schäfer and Norbert Wich on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
22/12/2020 - Climbing
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
Last summer relatively unknown British climber Aidan Roberts performed at a world-class level, establishing first ascents up to 8C+. This story is about his bouldering breakthrough and his amazing run of form.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
22/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher free Magellan on Urlkopf in Austria
Last August Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Magellan, a 15-year-old project on Urlkopf close to Loferer Alm in Austria. Huber reports.
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
17/11/2020 - Alpinism
Leap of Faith freed on Poncione d'Alnasca by Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni
Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Alessandro Zeni have made the first free ascent of Leap of Faith (8a+/b max, 7b+ obligatory, 500m), a big new multi-pitch up Poncione d'Alnasca in Switzerland.
Sébastien Bouin repeats Fred Rouhling’s Hugh at Eaux Claires, France’s first 9a
02/11/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin repeats Fred Rouhling’s Hugh at Eaux Claires, France’s first 9a
French climber Seb Bouin has made a rare ascent of Hugh at Les Eaux Claires, first ascended in 1993 by Fred Rouhling and famous for being the first 9a in France.
Stefan Scarperi keeps it real on Big Illusion, 8C boulder problem in Val Daone, Italy
31/10/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi keeps it real on Big Illusion, 8C boulder problem in Val Daone, Italy
29-year-old Italian rock climber Stefan Scarperi has made the first ascent of Big Illusion, an 8C boulder problem in Valle di Daone, Italy.
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
27/10/2020 - Climbing
Picos de Europa: Pou brothers and Kico Cerdá add Vibora to Urdón
Eneko and Iker Pou, climbing with Kico Cerdá, have made the first ascent of Vibora (180m, 8a) up the overhanging Urdón face close to Barranco de la Hermida in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
26/10/2020 - Interviews
Tribe at Cadarese: the James Pearson second ascent interview
Interview with British rock climber James Pearson after the second ascent of Tribe, the extremely difficult trad climb at Cadarese in Italy first ascended by Jacopo Larcher in 2019
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France
On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
20/10/2020 - Climbing
Edu Marín frees Arco Iris, extreme multipitch at Montserrat in Spain
Spanish rock climber Edu Marin has made the first free ascent of Arco Iris, a 200m multi-pitch climb graded 8c+ at Montserrat in Spain, first ascended in 1979 as an aid climb by Armand Ballart and German Folch.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
12/10/2020 - Climbing
Neil Gresham settles the Final Score, E10 at Iron Crag in UK
British rock climber Neil Gresham has established Final Score, an E10 trad climb at Iron Crag in England.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
14/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.