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Giovanni Placci claims Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) at Arco, Italy
27/11/2022 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci claims Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) at Arco, Italy
After Beginning earlier this month, Giovanni Placci has now redpointed his second 9a+, Trofeo dell'Adriatico at Arco, Italy.
Chaehyun Seo repeats La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
23/11/2022 - Climbing
Chaehyun Seo repeats La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana
19-year-old climber Chaehyun Seo from South Korea has repeated La Rambla (9a+) at Siurana in Spain. She is only the second woman to climb this iconic route after Margo Hayes in 2017.
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
Staša Gejo climbs Mécanique Élémentaire, 8B+ boulder problem in Fontainebleau, France
15/11/2022 - Climbing
Staša Gejo climbs Mécanique Élémentaire, 8B+ boulder problem in Fontainebleau, France
Serbian sport climber Staša Gejo has repeated Mécanique Élémentaire, an 8B+ boulder problem at Fontainebleau in France
Nolwen Berthier onsights 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge
10/11/2022 - Climbing
Nolwen Berthier onsights 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge
29-year-old French rock climber Nolwen Berthier has onsighted her first 8b+, Omaha Beach at Red River Gorge, USA. She joins the small group of climbers capable of onsighting 8b+.
Giovanni Placci repeats Beginning (9a+) at Arco
10/11/2022 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci repeats Beginning (9a+) at Arco
21-year-old Italian climber Giovanni Placci has repeated Beginning (9a+) at Eremo di San Paolo, Arco, Italy
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
08/11/2022 - Climbing
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
In Switzerland Camilla Moroni has sent four 8A+ boulder problems, 'Delusion of Grandeur' and 'Second life' at Chironico, and 'Primitivo stand' and 'King of Sonlerto' in Val Bavona. The 21-year-old Italian climber has also sent her hardest problem to date, the 8B 'Heritage' in Val Bavona.
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
02/11/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
On Monday 31 October 2022 William Bosi from Scotland made the third ascent of Alphane at Chironico in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. Established by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022, it was repeated by Aidan Roberts about a fortnight ago.
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
25/10/2022 - Climbing
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
24-year-old British rock climber Aidan Roberts has made the first repeat of Alphane, the boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and graded 9A by the American.
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
18/10/2022 - Alpinism
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
A joint Pakistani - French team comprised of Hassan Aljabbal, Adnan Khan, Sebastién Carniato and James Price has made the first traverse of Mirshikar Peak (5464m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. A day earlier, on 02/09/2022, Price opened a new route on nearby Pheker Peak (5465m), completing what is likely to be...
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in his introduction.
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
11/10/2022 - Climbing
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
On 9 October 2022 German climber Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Full Journey (9b) at Margalef in Spain.
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...