Florian Wientjes makes first repeat of Floatin (8C+) in Japan
German climber Florian Wientjes has made the second ascent of Floatin, the 8C+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan put up by Ryuchi Murai in 2021.
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Florian Wientjes making the first repeat of Floatin (8C+) in Japan, October 2023
Xaver Quintus
Florian Wientjes has claimed the second ascent of Floatin, the pure power boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan first ascended by Ryuchi Murai in December 2021 and graded 8C+.
For the last three months the 28-year-old German had trained specifically for the 5 intense moves, in particular the "downwards campusmove to a small crimp which requires a lot of contact strength to hold on." Evidently his training paid off because he sent the problem on just his 5th session. Interestingly, he used a different beta right at the start, where instead of Murai's campus move he used a pogo.
This is Wientjes' second 8C+, after sending Off the wagon low in Val Bavona earlier this year.
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