ROVERETO BOULDERING WORLD CUP 2006 - day by day

The entire program of the Rovereto Bouldering World Cup schduled for 12-14 May 2006 at the Palazzetto dello Sport, Rovereto, Italy.
Rovereto Bouldering World Cup 2006

It really is the case for this great boudering competition: we're at the starting blocks. On Friday 12 May the third stage of the Bouldering World Cup will kick off at the sports ground Palazzetto dello Sport. This three-day bouldering event is comprised of not only the World Cup competition, but also the convention entitled "Born to climb" which concentrates on climbing not only as a sport but also as a pedagogic method for the disabled, and as a cure for physical and therapeutic problems.

Friday 12 May - Qualification
The competition starts, obviously, with the women's qualification which begins at 10.0 am and finishes at 15.00. At 16.00 it's the men's turn to qualify: this starting day is important to gain confidence and check out the "style" of the 6 problems set by Laurent Laporte, Loris Manzana, Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. It is absolutely crucial to get this starting phase 100% right because in doing so they'll be halfway there and, more importantly, they will qualify for one of the 20 positions (20 men + 20 women) for Saturday's Semifinal.

Friday 12 May - Convention “Born to climb”
The absolutely new convention “Born to climb” will be held at the Sala della Filarmonica in via Rosmini at Rovereto from 14.30 to 16.30. During the convention doctors, physiotherapists, osteopaths, psychologists, doctors and technical directors of various different European countries will analyse the therapeutic, pedagogic and social aspects of sports climbing.

Saturday 13 May - Semifinals, Finals, SuperBlocco
The appointment for the second round, the World Cup Semifinal, is set for 14.00. The best 20 male and female athletes will compete, this time round, on 4 problems. No doubt it'll be a battle to the final top and final "zone" because only the best 6 will qualify for the Final round. At 21.00 the curtain lifts for the last act: the gran finale. This mustn't be missed on any counts, as there'll be the magnificent 6 + 6 finalists sending the last 4 problems which decide victory.
But there's more: the surprise Superblocco Fiera di Bolzano. As tradition has it, any boulder problem not climbed during the competition will be open to all competitors (and non). Other than the personal satisfaction of sending the problem, the first to top out will receive 500 euro prize money.

Sunday 14 May - Parassiti Block
Everyone, absolutely everyone, can compete on the World Cup boulder problems and many more of all grades. From 14.00 to 18.00 the Sports Hall will open it's doors to this great bouldering festival. This open-to-all bouldering meeting will officially round off the three-days of passionate bouldering.

The athletes
All the world's best will compete. Starting with Austrian Kilian Fischhuber, winner of the Bouldering World Cup 2005 and current leader of the 2006 circuit, and his closest rival Jerome Meyer from France. And continuing with the Italians Christian Core (current 5th) and Gabriele Moroni (7th), from whom all expect a great performance. And a great performace is expected of Stefano Ghidini, winner of the Italian Bouldering Cup 2005 competiting infront of his home crowd. The Italian squad is a strong one, with Lucas Preti, Paolo Leoncini, Luca Giupponi, Michele Caminati and (a pleasant "surpise") Alberto Gnerro. The French squad is a force to be reckoned with too (14 athletes in total) and so too are the Brits signed up for the competition, which include Andrew Earl, Martin Smith, Mark Croxall, Gareth Parry and Tom Sugden. Naturally Serik Kazbekov and Salavat Rakmethov, the competition veterans, will be there too. And to add some spice there are Tomasz Mrazek, the Difficulty Champion, and the Jorg Verhoeven from Holand who, just like Mrazek, is dedicating his energies (with great results) to the Difficulty World Cup. There are a few more surprise in store, Italian we hope... Calibani will compete, too.
The great favourite in the women's event is Olga Bibik, winner of the first two stages. She'll battle it out against Melanie Son (hopefully on form after her under-par performance in Bulgaria) and Juliette Danon. Anna Stöhr from Austria, current third in the World Cup ranking, will obviously be there while Bibik's closest rival, Olha Shalagina from the Ukraine, has not yet registered. Natalia Perlova, Bibik's long-term friendly rival, will compete in her first competition this year. The Italian team is comprised of Jenny Lavarda, Stefania De Grandi, Roberta Longo and Claudia Battaglia, and they will have to seriously watch out for the super difficulty champion Angela Eiter (who placed 5th in the last competition) and the difficulty specialist Natalija Gross from Slovenia.


Provisional results after the 2nd stage Veliko T.
1. Fischhuber Kilian AUT p.180.00
2. Meyer Jér™me FRA p.165.00
3. Müller Matthias SUI p.120.00
4. Gaidioz Lo•c FRA p.110.00
5. Core Christian ITA p.99.00
6. Pouvreau Gérome FRA p.80.00
7. Moroni Gabriele ITA p.77.00
8. Earl Andrew GBR p.75.00
9. Julien Stephane FRA p.59.00
10. Laurence Ludovic FRA p.49.00
11. Borowka Andre GER p.48.00
11. OLEKSY Tomasz POL p.48.00
13. Rakhmetov Salavat RUS p.47.00
14. Borowka Karsten GER p.42.00
15. Sharafutdinov Dmitry RUS p.40.00
click for full results

Provisional results after the 2nd stage Veliko T.
1. Bibik Olga RUS p.200.00
2. Danion Juliette FRA p.120.00
2. Stöhr Anna AUT p.120.00
4. Bacher Barbara AUT p.83.00
5. Abramchuk Yulia RUS p.81.00
6. Abgrall Emilie FRA p.80.00
6. Shalagina Olha UKR p.80.00
8. Combaz Celine FRA p.78.00
9. Hodann Anja SWE p.74.00
10. Graftiaux Chloé BEL p.71.00
11. Harmand Ludovine FRA p.67.00
12. Son Mélanie FRA p.64.00
13. Ansade Maud FRA p.60.00
14. Eiter Angela AUT p.51.00
15. Arch Nina AUT p.34.00
click for full results


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ROVERETOBOULDER by G. Malfer
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Competition pdf - 1,3 MB

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Introduction
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ROVERETOBOULDER by G. Malfer
Rovereto Bouldering World Cup 2006
ROVERETO
BOULDERING WORLD CUP 2006
12/13/14 MAY
Palazzetto dello Sport di Rovereto Via Piomarta, 1, Italy
 WORLD CUP PROGRAM
Thursday 11 May
21.00 technical meeting e consegna pettorali
Friday 12 May
10.00-15.00 Open women (40 competitors 5 hours)
16.00-23.00 Open men (60 competitors - 7 hours)
Saturday 13 May
14.00-17.00 Semifinal men and women (20+20 competitors - 3 ore)
21.00-23.00 Finals men and women (6+6 -2 hours)
Route setters: Laurent Laporte, Mario Prinoth, Loris Manzana.
PARASSITI BLOCK
BOULDERING COMPETITION OPEN TO ALL

Palazzetto dello Sport di Rovereto
Via Piomarta, 1
 PARASSITI BLOCK PROGRAM
Sunday 14 May
h4.00-18.00 meeting-competition
Registration fee 10 euro
Lottery prizes
Pre-registration no later than Friday 12 May, 18.00
REGISTRATION PARASSITI BLOCK

12 MAY 2006
BORN TO CLIMB CONGRESS

CLIMBING THERABY
Auditorium Melotti - Mart - Corso Bettini, Rovereto, Italy
 CONGRESS PROGRAM
Friday 12 May
14.30 registration of participants
15.00 Official welcome and introduction of works
15.30 Climbng as a human pecularity and hygenic motory activity. come peculiarità umana e attività motoria igienica. The auxologic importance of climbing. Dr. Marco Brazzo - chinesiologist and osteopathist (I)
16.00 Therapeutic climbing in physiotherapy, corrective physical reeducation in scoliosis. D.O. Dirk Scharler - physiotherapist, trainer, professor c/o University of Mariburg (D)
16.30 Climbingtherapy and Special Climbing: the emotions of climbing gain autonomy and integration.
Dr. Annalisa Zabonati (I) Psychologist and Sports psychologist - Vice President Myosotis Cooperativa Sociale Onlus. Dott. Luca Bardella (I) - Presidente Myosotis Coop Sociale Onlus, National counsellor F.A.S.I. - Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, Disabled Sector
17.00 Coffee Break
17.30 Sports climbing in schools
Prof. Luciano Selleri - Coordinator of Physical Education CSA di Parma, sports climbing instructor
18.00 Sports climbng and the pathologies of climbers.
Dr. Eugenio Pagano Dritto, Medical surgeon specialised in Sports Medicine, Federal Doctor (I)
18.30 round table and conclusion
Works will be coordinated by Andrea Gennari Daneri, director of the Italian climbing magazine Pareti.
CONGRESS INFO
Net Plan snc - Rovereto
tel 0464-433111 / 338-4170957
Congress registration module
net.plan@virgilio.it

Photos: some of the main actors of past editions of the Bouldering World Cup in Rovereto. (ph Giulio Malfer)



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