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"Pasta Religion", new French route on bigwall in Peru


French expedition climbs new route on NW Face of Puscanturpa Norte (5652m) in Peru's Huayhuash Cordillera.

Climbing at 5000m
photo Lombard - Daudet - Baudry archive

Lionel Daudet and François Lombard preparing for the night on the wall
photo Lombard - Daudet - Baudry archive
mini-expedition composed of the Frenchmen Lionel Daudet, François Lombard and Xavier Baudry spent two months in Peru's Huayhuash Cordillera climbing a new line up the NW Face of Puscanturpa Norte (5652m).

Two expeditions had previously summited, one in 1975 and one in 1988, but both had only brushed against the face and veered off towards the ridges.

Daudet, Lombard and Baudry required a month from 24 May to 24 June to climb the extremely steep 800m face. They fixed ropes and spent 16 days and 8 nights on the wall, breaching through a 350m overhanging section.

They encountered fantastic rock and A3/4 climbing and summited, after two 85 degree mixed pitches, in perfect weather on 9 June. A couple of days later they freed the route at sustained 7a+ (at over 5000m!).

The team predominantly used natural pro but also placed 19 bolts, mainly to protect the belays. No guesses to what they ate: the route is called "Pasta Religion".

Lionel Daudet, winner of the Piolet d'Or 1999

Interview with François Lombard after the Ice Boulder Cortina 2000





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