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Markus Bock on Three Suns And One Star 11-/11 (8c+), Frankenjura, Germany
Photo by Lars Decker
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Markus Bock Frankenjura 8c+


On 01/05/08 Markus Bock made the first ascent of Three Suns And One Star 11-/11 in the Frankenjura, Germany.

Markus Bock is obviously on a mission. After having famously climbed all the hardest routes in the Frankenjura, the 29 year old is left with no other choice than to establish new routes for himself if he wants to get to grips with something truly testing.

His latest creation "Three Suns And One Star" fits perfectly into this category: 15 very, very intense moves... Bock had this to say about his latest creation: "In the beginning I could hardly link a single move. I needed colder temperatures and a high pain-tollerance for the tiny crimps. The climbing is without compromises and mistakes are simply not allowed. The 15 moves have no rest at all and even the clips are difficult. What impressed me most though is the compact nature and beauty of the line which rises though the black and white streaked wall."

Talking about the Frankenjura: Adam Ondra seems to be on a mission too. He recently climbed the brutally crimpy "Unplugged", 25th attempt, 5th day on. In some respects, this is a record for the 15 year old. It should come as no surprise that the route was put up by none other than local hero Markus Bock. Below is a list of his hardest climbs:

Markus Bock, 13/02/1979 Bamberg, Germany
Frankenjura first ascents in order of difficulty
Corona 9a+ M. Bock 2006
Der Heiliger Gral 9a M. Bock 2005
Unplugged 9a M. Bock 2004
Matador 9a M. Bock 2007
Three Suns And One Star 8c+ M. Bock 2008
Sniper 8c+ M. Bock 2003
Vanquish 8c+ M. Bock 2004
Monolithic Baby! 8c+ M. Bock 2004
Hattori Hanzo 8c+ M. Bock 2005
Planets Collide 8c+ M. Bock 2007





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