|At the start of October Markus Bock made the first ascent of what he believes to be the hardest route in Germany's Frankenjura, "Corona" 11+ (French 9a+).
The route starts up the 1984 8c testpiece "Burn 4 U" before breaking off right up a severe set of sharp edges and pockets. Bock had checked out the route in 2003 and 2004, and this autumn things fell into place.
Bock describes the ascent as follows on climbing.de: "This is definitely the hardest route I've ever climbed and at the same time one of the best lines in the Frankenjura. I think that the route could be harder than Action Directe. All in all I needed about the same amount of time for both routes, but my new route has much smaller holds and is my preferred style of climbing."
Bock's credentials are impressive and include, amongst others, the first ascents of "Unplugged" (11) and "Heiliger Gral" (11) in the Frankenjura and numerous top-end repeats both at home and abroad (read Action Direct in October 2005, Biographie - part I (8c+) and Baa, Baa, Black Sheep (8c+) in Ceuse in September 2006).