New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites

For many years, while walking below the north face of Punta Emma, I was always struck by the beautiful gray slabs to the right of the Eisenstecken route. I always reckoned there was enough space to add a new line, but the yellow overhang at the top seemed so smooth and devoid of holds that it scared me. As a result I always put off finding out more.

Last year, on a cold spring day, I walked up there on my own with just my binoculars to take a really good look at the face and came to the conclusion that it was worth giving a go. I sent some photos to Rolly, he was just as curious as I and we agreed to try at the first available opportunity.

However, we started the season by trying our luck on another Dolomite mountain. Our attempt grounded to a halt pretty quickly, after just three pitches: the rock that was too loose and my knee too sore... We waited for a few days and then, somewhat apprehensively, we set off again towards the base of Punta Emma.

Usually we establish routes on lesser-known walls in the Dolomites, where our line is often the first on a particular face. This time though ours will possibly be the last, following in the footsteps of great alpinists such as Piaz, Steger, Eisenstecken, Pederiva. We felt the burden of responsibility and knew we'd have to approach the mountain with utmost respect. These were our thoughts before setting off, but we weren't all too worried since we knew that style of establishing new climbs was tried-and-tested.

The beauty of the rock was unique. We focused on the pure enjoyment of discovery. Creating something new is, for us, the maximum expression of climbing. After two windy days in June, we reached the top, directly opposite the Vajolet Towers. Below us lay a sign of our love for climbing, and our friendship. An Ariadne's thread, six pleasant pitches long. The rock was always beautiful, providing a mix of traditional and modern difficulties.

This time, in order to honour the mountaineering tradition that surrounded us and to celebrate 40 years of friendship and 20 years since our first new route together (Starsky & Hutch up Punta Serrauta on Marmolada), we decided to name the route using our surnames: the Giupponi- Larcher. Thanks Rolly and thanks mountains!

by Luca Giupponi

Giupponi thanks: La Sportiva - Mammut
Larcher thanks: La Sportiva - Montura - Petzl - Totem Cam