The women’s expedition comprised of Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil and Ixchel Foord has won the main grant of the First Ascent Expedition Award promoted by the Grit & Rock Award foundation aimed at promoting female first ascents. The expedition will attempt the unclimbed Mugu Peaks in Nepal in October.
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: on 10/12/2017 Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Schorschs Weinfall, a new icefall in the Longiarü Valley - Antersasc in Val Badia, Italy. Baumgartner reports.
The video of Stefano Ghisolfi redpointing La Capella, the 9b sports climb located at Siurana in Spain.
American alpinists Nathan Brown, Sam Macke, Jackson Marvell and Brian Mulvihill have established two new ice and mixed climbs at Jackson Hole, Wyoming, USA.
Jim Bridwell has left us. Yesterday, February 16th 2018, one of the absolute legends of rock climbing and mountaineering, died aged 73.
On Winkle Island, Antarctica, Marek Holeček and Míra Dub made the alpine style first ascent of Bloody Nose up the hitherto unclimbed Monte Pizduch located in the Mount Wheat massif. Carried out from 6 - 7 January 2018, the Czech mountaineers climbed alpine style for 33 hours, breached difficulties up to M4/WI5+, 95° and crossed four individual summits. Holeček, who climbed a new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 m) in 2017, provides the report.
On Friday 23 February at 21.00 at Riva del Garda, Italy, Adam Ondra and the Garda Trentino will present a unique event: the world premiers of Silence, the film directed by Bernardo Giménez that documents the road that led to the world’s first 9c. Ondra will be joined on stage by another climbing legend, Britain’s Jerry Moffatt.
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: Johannes Egger reports about the first ascent of Solo per un altro Hashtag, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Sella massif, first ascended on 27/01/2018 with Jörg Niedermayr and Friedl Brancalion.
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after the historic world’s first 9a+ flash, on Super Crackinette at Saint-Léger du Ventoux climbed on 10 February 2018.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have carried out the first winter ascent of Pik Pobeda, also known as Gora Pobeda and at 3003 meters the highest mountain in Siberia, Arctic Polar Circle.
At Saint Léger in France Adam Ondra has made a flash ascent of Super Crackinette. This is the first time a 9a+ has successfully been flashed.
Oriane Bertone, the 12-year-old climber from France’s Réunion Island, has climbed Golden Shadow in Rocklands, South Africa. In doing so she has become the youngest person to climb an 8B+ boulder problem.
South Tyrol’s Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner have established ‘New look new hook’, a new mixed climb up Rauhe Gaisl, Pragser Tal, Dolomites. The report by Christoph Hainz.
On 31/01/2018 Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher ascended Direkte Große Trichter, an ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Hoher Göll, Berchtesgaden Alps.
Swiss boulderer Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of a series of quality boulder problems in the Ticino region of Switzerland. One of the highlights is IUR, a 8B+ described as one of the best in Cresciano.
On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.
At Charmey in Switzerland Adam Ondra has repeated Meiose, indicating 9a+ instead of the 9b grade suggested by first ascentionist Pirmin Bertle, while at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France the 25-year-old Czech climber has free yet another 9a+.
Anna Torretta reports about the Ice Climbing Festival held at Erzurum (Anatolia) in Turkey. Participants included the mountain guide from Courmayeur, Italy and the French mountain guide Jeff Mercier as well as Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord, Jost Kobusch and Raphael Schardt. Two new icefalls were established Cetin (WI5-) and Olga (WI4) dedicated to Olga Gorozhanina.
Ice climbing in Italy's South Tyrol: in the Bletterbach Gorge Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer climbed Eistänzer, a probable new 110 m high ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M6.
At the Grotta Gampenpass in the South Tyrol Florian Riegler and his brother Martin have established two new mixed climbs. The report by Florian Riegler.