Rock Master Festival, 27/08/2016. A beautiful and difficult Semifinal of the 5th stage of the Lead World Cup has just come to an end. Anak Verhoeven (Bel) and Romain Desgranges (Fra) produce the only two tops, and are followed by Ramón Julian Puigblanque (Esp), Jakob Schubert (Aut), Domen Skofic (Slo), Dmitrii Fakiryanov (Rus), Francesco Vettorata (Ita), Adam Ondra (Cze), Sebastian Halenke (Ger) and Anne-Sophie Koller (Sui), Mina Markovic (Slo), Janja Garnbret (Slo), Julia Chanourdie (Fra), Yuka Kobayashi (Jpn), Mathilde Becerra (Fra) e Jain Kim (Kor). Live streaming of the finals from the Climbing Stadium at 20:00.
On Friday 26/08/2016 the 11th Arco Rock Legends celebration took place in Arco, Italy during the 30th Rock Master. Daniel Andrada won the Wild Country Rock Award, while the La Sportiva Competition Award went to Mina Markovič. The other nominees were Jakob Schubert, Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra. IFSC president Marco Maria Scolaris received the The Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2016 on behalf of the International Federation of Sport Climbing.
The report of the first day of the fifth stage of the Lead World Cp 2016, currently taking place at Arco during the 30th Rock Master competition.
Peter Manhartsberger reports about the first ascent, carried out together with Klaus Gössinger, of Bramosa Scura (6c+, 145m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the North Face of Cima Vallon, Sella, Dolomites.
The video of America climber Chris Sharma attempting his Le Blond Project at Oliana, named after Patrick Edlinger.
While recovering from a finger injury, former Lead World Champion Angela Eiter has sent some hard boulder problems at the Silvretta bouldering area in Austria.
Within the context of the Rock Master Festival 2016, the Lead World Cup and the Speed World Cup now return to Italy. 199 athletes from 28 different nations will compete on Friday 26 and on Saturday 27 August at the Arco Climbing Stadium (Garda Trentino). Sunday’s competitions continue with the KO Boulder Contest and the 30th Rock Master Trophy. To cap it all, the Arco Rock Legends sport climbing Oscars are scheduled for Friday night.
Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel have established 'The loss of the Demantoid', a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Kristallwand face on Kirchkogel (3280m) in Austria. The route was established in memory of their friend Gerhard Fiegl.
Spanish sports climber Edu Marin has carried out the first repeat of Wogü, the 8c multi-pitch sports climb established by Beat Kammerlander and freed by Adam Ondra in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland.
On 16/08/2016 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck raced up the Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) to the summit of Mont Blanc. Not to set a speed record, but to enjoy 'a great day out in the mountains.'
The video of mountain guide Roman Valentini documenting the enormous rockfall that took place last week on Kleine Gaisl (Piccola Croda Rossa), in the Braies group of the Italian Dolomites
On 26 August 2016 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2016 prize will be awarded to the International Federation of Sport Climbing for the inclusion of sport climbing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Maria Scolaris, president of the IFSC since 2001, will receive the award on behalf of the federation.
Giovanni Zaccaria recalls the climb, carried out in December 2015 together with his partner Alice Lazzaro, of 'Per aspera ad astra'; not necessarily a new route, but certainly an adventure up the North Face of Campanile S. Marco (Marmarole, Dolomites) in memory of his grandfather Giuseppe Suppiej.
On Saturday 20 August 2016 at 19:30 in Imst, Austria, the finals of the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016.
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the recent two-month climbing trip to Baffin Island, together with Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera that resulted in a series of new, long and difficult trad routes.
The German climber Alexander Megos has made an impressive flash ascent of The Path at Lake Louise in Canada. This extremely difficult trad climb was freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2007 and is graded 5.14 (8b+).
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.
Interview with Marco Scolaris (President of the International Federation of Sport Climbing - IFSC) after the historic inclusion of sport climbing competitions in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games.
During a few short trips to France, Italy’s Stefano Carnati repeated Condè de Choc 9a at Entraygues in the Briançon region and Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a at Ceuse.
On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by Vinicio Stefanello of planetmountain.com.