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Ines Papert frees Schwarze Madonna on Untersberg

On 6/10/2012 Ines Papert made the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m) on Untersberg in Germany.

Planetmountain

October 2012

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6/10/2012 Ines Papert during the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m), Untersberg, Germany

Franz Walter

There's always a unique bond with where you started climbing. Something particular which renders returning to your vertical roots special, and this obviously also holds true for German climber Ines Papert who on her home mountain - Untersberg in the Berchtesgaden Alps below Salzburg - recently freed Schwarze Madonna - Black Madonna - a six pitch route with difficulties up to 8a+ and which now checks in as the hardest on this peak.

The line was first started by Michael Grassl and back in 2008 Papert took over the baton and, together with Stefan Rass, completed the rest of the route ground-up to the top. At the time though the start seemed too difficult, the crux reach simply too long, and only this autumn after her Baffin island trip, did Papert turn her attention back to this SW Face,

On 6 October Papert joined forces with regular climbing partner and strong Austrian mountain guide Lisi Steurer and making the most of perfect conditions Papert managed to free all the pitches first go. According to Korbinian Rieser who recently tried to repeat the route, this offers "absolutely sensational climbing on compact limestone."

TOPO: Schwarze Madonna, Untersberg

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