Angela Eiter waltzes an 8b/+ onsight in Lechtal, Austria

Austria’s Angela Eiter has managed to onsight Tanz der Moleküle, at 8b/+, her hardest onsight to date after her 2006 onsight of the 8b Skyline at Bürs in Austria. The ascent was mentioned as a sideline in her summer climbing report, which concentrated on finding inspiring projects close to home and the redpoints of three 8c’s - Janus at Nassereith, Gondor at Niederthai and Game at Hahntennjoch - but 8b/+ marks an important step forward for Eiter and close to the absolute limit of female onsights. As such it deserves closer attention.

"I spent about 30 minutes climbing the route, and clipped all the quickdraws myself, apart from two. The start of the route is technically quite demanding on small footholds, and this is followed by the crux up even smaller crimps. The difficulties then ease somewhat but the top has a sting in its tail and you’re got to remain concentrated." explained Eiter. After the successful ascent she then worked an 8c twice before finishing off the day by onsighting Highliner, 8a+/8b, concluding "I was on that route for about 45 minutes and really exhausted."