New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.
Sas Ciampac forms part of the Puez group in the Dolomites, between Val Gardena and Val Badia, wedged next to the Cir and Sassongher groups. From a distance the south face looks like a large blade, but close inspection reveals a corrugated wall, embroidered with steep arêtse that drop like a knife, fissures and corners, all perfect for climbing.
A few years ago Simon Kehrer had drawn an imaginary line from the base of the wall to the summit, immediately to the left of the well-known Adang – Nogler route. In autumn 2013 Kehrer asked Christoph Hainz to join him and his colleague immediately jumped at the chance.
After an intense season working as mountain guides the duo decided to start their adventure in October 2013. Over 6 days, between 3 and 28 October and in alternating weather but nevertheless with acceptable temperatures, the two forged this beautiful route called Rien ne va plus.
The climb is certainly a good option in spring or autumn given its exposure: south at first and then, after the 10th pitch, west. The route follows the line of best rock and offers varied climbing. According to the first ascentionists Rien ne va plus will soon become highly popular.
by Franco Mucchietto
TOPO: Rien ne va plus, Puez, Dolomites