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Rudi Hauser, Romsdalen, Norway
Photo by Thomas Senf
Ines Papert, Romsdalen, Norway
Photo by Thomas Senf
Ines Papert during the first ascent of Sea Gull Jonathan WI 6
Photo by Thomas Senf
Ines Papert climbing 50$ King Crab (WI6/M10, 350m)
Photo by Thomas Senf

Massive new ice climbs in Romsdalen, Norway


A team comprised of Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser, Lukas Seiwald, Kurt Astner, Emanuele Ciullo, Thomas Senf and Scott Milton has just returned from the Romsdalen region in Norway where they repeated a series of routes and made the first ascents of a number of important new ice climbs.

In 2010 Austrian climber Rudi Hauser travelled to the west coast of Norway, just a few hours from Trondheim, and discovered steep valleys and gigantic rock faces which although well-known amongst base jumpers, are less renowned for their ice and mixed potential. Acting on this initial recce Hauser returned in February 2012 along with Ines Papert, Lukas Seiwald, Kurt Astner, Emanuele Ciullo, Thomas Senf and Scott Milton and the team, based in the Sunndalenfjord, scoped the climbing in the Sunndalen, Amotan, Eikesdal, Eresfjord and Trollveggen areas. Unsurprisingly, they came away with a series of important first ascents and repeats. Papert's trip report is published below.

by Ines Papert

Surprice (WI6+/M8, 350m)
On day 1 our photographer Thomas Senf and I set off in perfect conditions at around 0° to climb our first route in the Litldalen/Sunndalen area. Our goal was to climb a massive ice dagger which could be reached after 300 meters of climbing. When we got there I started up the steep mixed pitch equipped with a full rack, the rock provided perfect placements and I placed my last piece of pro on a thin ice smear just beneath the gigantic dagger. I leaned out carefully, delicately placed my first axe into the dagger, then the second and carefully cut loose. Suddenly though the dagger tore beneath my tools, tons of ice tumbled down into the void below. I was dangling in space, but held my nerve and swung back to reach the rock and smear. My first thought: hopefully Thomas was safe enough beneath the overhang. I shouted down and he gave me the thumbs up. We'd been lucky. We were shaken, but nevertheless we wanted to complete the route. The dangerous dagger was no more, but this had given way to a powerful ice roof which I fought hard to overcome. Thomas then led the last pitch. We'd done it!

Quattro Naziones (WI 6/M9/A1, 500m)
We discovered a huge ice gully at the end of the Eikesdal Valley with a mixed variation finish. Lukas Seiwald, Thomas Senf, Emanuele Ciullo and I climbed 400m up easy terrain before things got serious: a 40m pitch up steep granite to finish via the final dagger... Lukas belayed me with tons of patience: steep granite, poor gear and hard technical climbing made this pitch a real challenge. Halfway up I had to place a bolt by hand to avoid a potential fall onto a ledge and the climbing remained challenging right up to the very end. I was exhausted when I reached the top, a redpoint ascent was simply out of the question and we planed to return in the next couple of days. Unfortunately though the weather took a turn for the worse, a huge snowstorm arrived and the ensuing avalanche danger forced us to abandon hopes. A free ascent is something to aim for in the future.

Sea Gull Jonathan WI 6 and Offshore (WI 7, 250m)
One of the absolute highlights of our Norway visit was a boat trip from Eidsvag across the Eresfjord to reach the face on the other shore. Lukas, Scott and I made the first ascent of "Sea Gull Jonathan" in a truly exposed position high above the fjord, while Rudl, Kurt and Thomas established "Off Shore". Two parallel running, 250m high climbs up demanding ice, never climbed previously. What a great experience!

50$ King Crab (WI6/M10, 350m)
Neither Thomas Senf nor I had ever climbed such strangely coloured ice before. The dagger reminded us of legs of King crabs, the ones Rudi had cooked for us the day before. Despite this massive protein intake my mental strength was almost spent, and since the rock accepted little natural gear I protected our 50$ King Crab with 5 bolts. We returned the next day and I managed to send: the crux was a massive span which shook me off a couple of times before I was successful. The remaining ice to the top was some of the finest I've ever climbed and this is certainly one of our best routes ever.

Perly on Ice (WI6/ M9 70m Trad)
Our last day offered warm temperatures and lots of snow, but conditions were still good enough to try a new route. A crack in the roof was the line we wanted to climb: a magic line protected with trad gear which luckily held my long falls. Thanks to Thomas' motivation I managed to redpoint the line just before our departure. We named it after our "foster mother" Perly, who provided us with everything and made our trip an unforgettable experience.

Thanks to all team members and of course Rudi Hauser who made this all happen.

  Name Area Grade & Length Ascent Date Info First ascent
1 Surprice Litldalen Sunndalsöra, left side WI6+/M8 350m Papert
04/02/12 NAE Set Cams + Rocks Yes
2 Jokahi-sen
Litldalen Sunndalsöra, left side, Gully WI5 400m Seiwald
04/02/12 ice gear No
3 Driva helle fossen Eresfjord, 15 min after Eidsvag, direction Eresfjord WI6 250m Hauser
05/02/12 ice gear Yes
4 Gully Eresfjord, 15 min after Eidsvag, direction Eresfjord, Gully WI5 250m Seiwald
05/02/12 ice gear Probably
5 Quattro nazioni Eikesdal, left side of valley WI 6/M9/A1 500m Papert
06/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons ; 1 Bolt in the Route Yes
6 Säule Romsdalen, ice pillar WI5+ 30m Hauser
06/02/12 ice gear No
7 Gr. Wand Romsdalen, left side of valley   Hauser
07/02/12 Attempt of the Route, after 5 1/2 Pitches and 400 meters they returned No
8 Fred Feuerstein Romsdalen, left side of valley M7 240m Seiwald
07/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons Yes
9. Italien Job Romsdalen, mixed face M8+ 70m Hauser
08/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons Probably
10. Mixedwand Romsdalen, mixed face WI5 70m Seiwald
08/02/12 ice Gear Probably
11 Jolly Romsdalen, pillar face WI6+ 30m Hauser
08/02/12 Set Cams Probably
12 Sea Gull Jonathan Eresfjord, across fjord near Eiksvag WI6 250m Papert
09/02/12 ice gear Yes
13 Offshore Eresfjord, across fjord near Eiksvag WI7 250m Hauser
09/02/12 ice gear Yes
14 Brudeslöret Romsdalen WI6 350m Seiwald
11/02/12 ice gear No
15 Fifty Dollar King Crab Eikesdal, yellow waterfall left at the end of valley M10 300m Papert
11/02/12 Cam 0.3; ice gear; 5 Bolts in the Route Yes
16 Waterworld Amotan, right of waterfall WI6 150m Hauser
11/02/12 ice gear Probably
17 Rage against the Maschine Sunndalen, Power House M7+ 70m Hauser
11/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons No
18 Ultimate Rush Amotan, left of waterfall WI 7+/ 8- 150m Hauser
12/02/12 ice gear Yes
19 Klassischer Eisfall links Amotan, classic route left of waterfall WI5 150m Seiwald
12/02/12 ice gear No
20 Lange Wand Sunndalen, long wall WI6 600m Hauser
13/02/12 ice gear  
21 Averlange Express Romsdalen, face by Hochstand M8+ 120m Hauser
14/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons + Rocks Probably
22 C3 Sunndalen, mixed face above Power the House M8+ 70m Hauser
15/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons Yes
23 Perly on Ice Sunndalen, mixed face above the Power House WI 6/M9 70m Papert
15/02/12 Set Cams + Pitons Yes





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