1 / 1Marmolada: Bubu Bole first all-lead ascent of Larcher-Vigiani
On 10 September Mauro "Bubu" Bole made the first all-lead ascent of the "Larcher-Vigiani" together with Jenny Lavarda on the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy.
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Fabio Dandri
 On 10 September Mauro "Bubu" Bole made the first all-leader ascent of the "Larcher-Vigiani" on the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy. This super 13-pitch 8a (7b obbligatory) was established in 2000 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani who, in 2001, made the first free ascent. The route up the immense limestone SW Face was subsequently repeated on 17/07/2005 by Bruno Pederiva and Mario Prinoth. And now it's Bubu's hour: after working the route he climbed the line in a faultless 13 hour push and in doing so also made the first all-lead ascent. Interestingly, Bubu teamed up with Jenny Lavarda in what was certainly a baptism of fire for the Italian sports climbing champion. "The idea came about with Ines Papert" explains Bole. "She gave me the right motivation to try this beautiful route! Otherwise I would have continued car racing! Ines then gave up: she still had to work through last year's accident on the Pesce. Since the adventure had started wih a woman it couldn't finish without another female victim, Jenny Lavarda! Otherwise it would have been nonsense! Seriously though, I was lucky never to fall on the route, otherwise the project would have failed!" "The route is truly beautiful" Bubu adds "beautiful, difficult and alpine. It's a true alpine big wall, with difficulties up to 8a at 3000m on the great Marmolada south face. Almost all pitches are psychologically demanding and "engagée" is not a hollow sounding word. They make you experience something which would be reductive if compared only to sports climbing. You've got hard climbing in an alpine dimension. Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani really did something incredible, both for the style of ascent and the psychological requirements: congratulations, really!" And congratulations to Jenny too, for her near-blind enthusiasm up this new adventure! LARCHER & VIGIANI Punta Penia, Marmolada, Dolomites 6c (45m); 6c (50m); 7c+ (45m); 7b (60m); 7c+/8a (60m); 7c (40m); 7a (60m); 8a (55m); 7b (+55m); 7c+/8a (40m); 7b - 60m); III (50m). |
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