Home page Planetmountain.com
Jeff Merçier climbing Low G Man D14, alla micidiale sbandierata di Megaroof, Bus del Quai, Iseo
Photo by M. Fogazzi

Jeff Merçier climbs first Italian D14 at Bus Quai

di

On December 28, 2014 at the drytooling crag Bus del Quai, Iseo, French climber Jeff Mercier made the first ascent of Low G Man, a combination of three existing drytooling routes. Graded D14 this is now the hardest total dry climb in the country. The report by Matteo Rivadossi.

French ace Jeff Merçier had a startling weekend just after Christmas when, on Saturday 27 December at the Iseo cave, he made the second ascent of Kamasutra D13+. He did so after having just checked out the moves once and, importantly, in a clean style, i.e. without Yaniros! Merçier believes the grade of the route freed by Angelika Rainer in January 2014, if climbed without using the classic "Figure 4" (widely used in competitions), could even be D14-.

On the 28th, after several attempts, Merçier pulled off the incredible first ascent of Low G Man, a combination of three routes: starting up Ermafrodito (the classic D7+ traverse) it continuous into Megaroof (a tremendous D12+ pitch freed by Evgeny Krivoshetsev in 2011 and repeated by Matteo Rivadossi only in 2013) to then finish up the second part of Kamasutra (D13+). For this monstrous 45-metre marathon Merçier suggests, for the first time in Italy, the superlative grade D14: if this stands, Low G Man is the hardest total dry route in the country!

It's important to underline that once again Merçier climbed without making any Figure of Four moves, opting instead for the more physical and natural DTS (Dry Tooling Style) climbing style he believes is more ethical and which he promotes internationally.

It's great to know that in out backyard behind Brescia there's a crag that is visited by many international athletes, both strong as humble. And it's great that you can go there on a Sunday and any witness something amazing, a real pleasure and a incentive for all of us "mere humans" to do better and to train harder.

Matteo Rivadossi

Share


SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra