Dry tooling: Nelson and Ogden on tour

In a two week trip Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden from Colorado repeated some of the hardest dry tooling routes in Europe, including Mission Impossible and Vertical Limit.

PlanetMountain.com

February 2004

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It's clear for all to see: there is some confusion about the grades given to dry tooling routes. It's equally clear that this uncertainty is due to the fact that modern mixed climbing is still in it's early days. Given time, routes are repeated and compared, the best in world exchange opinions, and consequently the margin for error diminishes. Just as it did with mountaineering, rock climbing and bouldering. And this is now happening in dry tooling.

It is because of this that we're pleased to publish a report by the American Climbing Magazine about a European tour du force at the hands of Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden. In a two-week stint the duo from Colorado repeated some of the old continent's hardest offerings, comparing them to their counterparts in the USA. Comparison and experience, two much needed ingredients to help the grades settle.

Article courtesy of Climbing Magazine:
"Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a two-week tour of Europe’s highly publicized mixed-climbing venues and quickly cleaned up some of the hardest routes. Among the highlights, Nelson climbed "Captain Hook" (M10) and "Mission Impossible" (M11) in Italy, both on his second try. At Isenfluh, Switzerland, he climbed "White Out" (M10+) on his third try and "Tomahawk" (M10+/M11) second-try. And at Uschinen, Switzerland, the Euro-crag du jour, Nelson onsighted several hard routes, including "Tool Time" (M10+), and repeated "Vertical Limit" (M12) on his third try.

Ogden, meanwhile, climbed "Tomahawk" on his second try, flashed a couple of M9 and M10 routes, and also did "Vertical Limit" on his third try.

Nelson, who has established a string of hard mixed climbs in southwestern Colorado in recent years, was not impressed with the well-hyped climbs in Europe. “With the exception of "Mission Impossible", which is the best quality route I have ever done, most of the routes you walk up to and say, “This is it?”"

Ryan Nelson. Student, numerous hard repeats and first ascents in Colorado, in particular the F.A: of the ice boulder Liquid Swords (M-hard) Rifle.

Jared Ogden. Highly talented all-round climber, voted one of the top 11 climbers that represent the best of the U.S. by Climbing Magazine. Numerous cutting-edge first ascents and expeditions worldwide, including Patagonia, Alaska, Peru, Nepal, Baffin Island, and Pakistan. Many will remember his ascent of Great Trango Tower, followed live on the internet in 1999.
Expeditions:
Karakoram, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, "Book of Shadows" 95, (VII 5.10+ A4 WI4).
Shipton Spire, "Ship of Fools," first alpine ascent. '97 (VII 5.11 A2 WI6)
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, F.A., '99 (VII 5.11 A4)

Mauro Bubu Bole making the first ascent of his Mission Impossible, described by Ryan Nelson as "the best quality route I have ever done."
photo Andrea Gallo