The routes

854
Routes in archive
Superdad
Climbing routes
Superdad - Punta Malanotte
5c
The route explores the face which seems to have been unclimbed until now, and attempts to follow the large arete. While the lower section is demanding and almost vertical, in particular pitch 1, the angle then eases off and the...
SuperPiter
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
SuperPiter - Monte Aga
AI 6+ M6
First light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we...
Surprise - Sorpresa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Surprise - Sorpresa - Nasswand
WI 6+, M6
Interesting mixed climb up Nasswand / Croda Bagnata, which rarely comes into condition. The first pitches are hidden from view, while the chimneyon the left provides two excitign pitches up steep ice.
Sweet Helen
Climbing routes
Sweet Helen - Aguglia di Goloritzè
6c
Magnificent climbing in an exceptional beautiful setting. The route ascends the west face of the Aguglia di Goloritzè on a beautiful gray slab and then leads to the tower called “Figlia di Guglia”. This is difficult pitch yet, despite closer...
Tempi moderni
Climbing routes
Tempi moderni - Punta Rocca
7+
Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers...
Tempi modernissimi
Climbing routes
Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...
Terzo spigolo
Climbing routes
Terzo spigolo - Tofana di Rozes
4/5
Elegant climbing in a grandiose setting, up the imposing third arête on the left-hand side of Pilastro di Rozes. The rock is generally good quality and the difficulties remain sustained from the second half upwards. The in-situ gear is sufficient...
Testa o Croce
Climbing routes
Testa o Croce - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b
The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a...
Testa tra le nuvole
Climbing routes
Testa tra le nuvole - Mandrea Arco
7a+
Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...
Teufelsgeige
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Teufelsgeige - Langental
IV, WI 5
Interesting ice climb located circa 30m to the right of the classic Piovra in Langental / Vallunga. Teufelsgeige has proven to be an instant classic.
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
The Central Pillar of Frêney - British route - Mont Blanc
ED
This is certainly one the absolute classic and popular routes in the Alps and leads to the summit of Mont Blanc via the highest rock pillar in the entire massif. Thanks to its altitude and orientation the tip of the...
The day after
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
The day after
I/3 - II/3+
The wild and beautiful Valle delle Laures, located within the mountain comunity Monte Emilius, was one of the first areas to be developed by ice climbers, and the first icefalls date back to the early 1980's. The icefalls are...
The Edge
Climbing routes
The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)
Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an...
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce
Climbing routes
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce - Marmolada d'Ombretta
7+, A2 (7b+)
A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme, and even if the original protection has been modified, it nevertheless remains a route not to be underestimated.
The Hour Between Dog and Wolf
Climbing routes
The Hour Between Dog and Wolf - Trogkofel
VIII/VIII + RP
The Hour Between Dog and Wolf was first ascended by Michal Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalová on 20-21 August 2020 on the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip. It takes a line to the right of Montanari...
The King of Fanes
Climbing routes
The King of Fanes - Col Bechei
6c/6c+
The King of Fanes is a great multi-pitch climb that breaches spectacular rock on the south face of Col Bechei. The first pitch was added immediately after the first ascent and starts off up loose rock. It can be avoided...


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