The routes

1166
Routes in archive
Couloir Del Caimano
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Couloir Del Caimano - Valle di Trona
I/4
Long couloir, fun and a great training route, first ascended solo by Cristian Candiotto on 22/12/2007.
Sfasciacarrozze
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Sfasciacarrozze - Castello di Vallesinella
WI 6+, M7
Difficult mixed climb established ground-up over three days, completed on 27/12/2012. According to Faletti the line is "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes."
Follow the Gully
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Follow the Gully - Barre des Ecrins
M6
Short but intense gully. In dry conditions the route is difficult to protect. At times the rock quality is poor. Grandiose setting, total isolation.
Dio li fa e poi li accoppia
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Dio li fa e poi li accoppia - Valnontey - Cogne
WI5 M5+ 5c R X
Despite its unattractive appearance from below, each pitch offers beautiful, logical, fund and demanding climbing. Don't underestimate the difficulties because of the bolts, the route demands great trad climbing skills. Established ground-up, the aim was to leave it as trad...
Psyco Killer
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Psyco Killer - Tofana di Mezzo
IV+, WI7-, D5
The icefall is clearly visible when descending from Forcella Col dei Bos (2331m) towards beautiful Val Travenanzes: look up westwards just before Malga Travenanzes (1965m) to see the drip.Psyco Killer is a "perfect" line which, when in condition, stands out...
Valeria
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Valeria - Crozzon di Brenta
VI ice, M6, VI+ rock
Beautiful 270m ice climb up the West Face of Crozzon di Brenta, first climbed by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti in January2013, and dedicated to Valeria Brunelli who died in the night between 8 and 9 October 2012, buried...
Illusion
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Illusion - Val Budria
5/5+
Great 2-pitch icefall set in a beautiful gully in Val Budria climbed on 5 January by Cristian Candiotto and Ezio Lualdi. Why Illusion? "Because from down in the valley you simply can't believe that it's up there, when you first...
Via Ladri
Climbing routes
Via Ladri - Campanile Basso
7a
Established in late autumn and early winter - from 2005 onwards - to avoid rocks falling onto the famous Bocchette via ferrata and the Via Normale, Via Ladri now offers cleaned rock, beautiful in most parts, with the final pitches...
Brothers
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Brothers - Cima Grostè
M6+
A "decidedly demanding" mixed climb, difficult to protect and  "for experienced alpinists only."
Triple A
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Triple A - Alraunewand
M9 (WI7-, M7, A1)
A perfect, highly selective line up the Alraunewand. The route shares some belays and some short sections of some nearby summer routes, established by  the first ascentionists of this winter route. Triple A was established ground-up and without checking out...
The usual suspects
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
The usual suspects - Alraunewand
WI7-, M7, A2
The first three pitches are difficult and psychologically demanding, up thin ice smears and ice mushrooms up to 95°. These are followed by a difficult 4m roof with some suspended drips. This is crowned by a vertical face and another...
Wurzer Rinne
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Wurzer Rinne - Hochgasser
M5, WI5
Nice ice and mixed route established by the brothers Peter and Matthias Wurzer, a few hundred metres to the right of Hauptgully. Like the other routes on this face, it finished on the Hochgasser North Ridge.
Ben Gassa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ben Gassa - Hochgasser
M5/M6, WI5
Ben Gassa was first ascended by the Austrian Mountain Guides Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini on 16/11/2012 with difficulties up to M5/M6, WI5, following a gully and line 50m to the right of Hauptgully.
Hauptgully
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Hauptgully - Hochgasser
M4, 60°
Interesting ice and mixed climb first ascended alone by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.


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