The routes

1157
Routes in archive
Via Ladri
Climbing routes
Via Ladri - Campanile Basso
7a
Established in late autumn and early winter - from 2005 onwards - to avoid rocks falling onto the famous Bocchette via ferrata and the Via Normale, Via Ladri now offers cleaned rock, beautiful in most parts, with the final pitches...
Brothers
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Brothers - Cima Grostè
M6+
A "decidedly demanding" mixed climb, difficult to protect and  "for experienced alpinists only."
Triple A
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Triple A - Alraunewand
M9 (WI7-, M7, A1)
A perfect, highly selective line up the Alraunewand. The route shares some belays and some short sections of some nearby summer routes, established by  the first ascentionists of this winter route. Triple A was established ground-up and without checking out...
The usual suspects
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
The usual suspects - Alraunewand
WI7-, M7, A2
The first three pitches are difficult and psychologically demanding, up thin ice smears and ice mushrooms up to 95°. These are followed by a difficult 4m roof with some suspended drips. This is crowned by a vertical face and another...
Wurzer Rinne
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Wurzer Rinne - Hochgasser
M5, WI5
Nice ice and mixed route established by the brothers Peter and Matthias Wurzer, a few hundred metres to the right of Hauptgully. Like the other routes on this face, it finished on the Hochgasser North Ridge.
Ben Gassa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ben Gassa - Hochgasser
M5/M6, WI5
Ben Gassa was first ascended by the Austrian Mountain Guides Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini on 16/11/2012 with difficulties up to M5/M6, WI5, following a gully and line 50m to the right of Hauptgully.
Hauptgully
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Hauptgully - Hochgasser
M4, 60°
Interesting ice and mixed climb first ascended alone by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.
Silberpfenning
Ski mountaineering
Silberpfenning

From Naturfreundehaus ascend to nearby Ammerhof 1628m by returning along the road from Kolm Saigurn 1598 m (10 min). Take the summer path n° 24/25 from here through the wood to the starting slopes of the Seekopf Kolmkar Spitze 2226...
Hoher Sonnblick
Ski mountaineering
Hoher Sonnblick

From the Naturfreundehaus at Kolm Saigurn 1598 m ascend south and, shortly after the first slope, turn right past some ruins to the Ochsenkarkees glacier which leads to the Hoher Sonnblick summit at 3106m. The Zittel Haus is located on...
Hocharn
Ski mountaineering
Hocharn

From Kolm Saigurn 1598m follow the forest track that leads to the hotel, but immediately after the village cross the river on the left-hand side of the valley and, when close to the bus stop, head for the obvious Hocharn...
Saga di Valle Bavona
Climbing routes
Saga di Valle Bavona - Gendarm de Gramüsèd
8a+
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss
Climbing routes
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss - Großer Falkenstein
7b+/S1/II
Established in autumn 2012 ground-up by Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini, this climb presents difficulties up to 7b+ and joins the other 6 multi pitches on the 120m high face.
Waiting for the sun behind the moon
Climbing routes
Waiting for the sun behind the moon - Parete dei Falchi

Dedicated to Sole who was born in June, their Waiting for the sun behind the moon offers varied climbing up a series of slabs, cracks and corners. Pitch 2 offers a bombè roof which still need freeing - presumably at...
Schwarze Madonna
Climbing routes
Schwarze Madonna - Untersberg
8a+
Established ground-up in 2008, Black Madonna was freed in 2012 by Papert. The route offers "absolutely sensational climbing up really compact limestone" and is currently the hardest outing on the Untersberg.
Full Love... for dry and ice
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
La beffa
Climbing routes
La beffa - Cima Cason di Formin
7a+/7b
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...


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