The routes

After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...

On 28/01/2014 Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Bendikt Purner made the first ascent of Zweite Geige (WI7/M7) in Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.

Superb alpine outing in a little known area of the Presolana. The route climbs the obvious recessed gully, past compact snow, hard to protect and mixed sections up corners and chimneys. Pro is not always easy to place. Pitches 5...

On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. This is...

Monte Pisanino is the highest mountain in the Apuan Alps and, especially in winter, is impressive from any side you look at it. Its southern flank is mostly rocky and is criss-crossed by several gullies often broken by narrow sections,...

Sagro is the mountain in the Apuan Alps that is the closest to the sea. From the sea it resembles a large grassy blade, and its color varies according to the seasons: green in spring, yellow in summer and autumn,...

Monte Tambura is certainly the easiest summit in the Apuan Alps. It's a sort of large  pyramid with a triangular base formed by three ridges and its three sides. The North Face is called Carcaraia and is less steep than...

The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...

This, the most famous of the great Nevis ridges, is a magnificent expedition. It is technically easier than the North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge, but it should not be underrated. The main difficulties are concentrated high up, and the...

A justifiably popular route, often in condition and the benchmark grade V,5 from which all other steep snow-ice gully climbs are graded.

Even though it is one of the classic Chamonix descents, the Glacier Rond is a technical itinerary that requires good ropework and experience with glacier skiing techniques.Be careful on the traverse to enter the initial couloir, as it’s often icy....

It seems almost impossible that there are still some little known descents in the Pale di San Martino group since this area is highly popular with mountaineers and climbers all year round. And, better still, that these descents are neither...

Vallée Blanche is like Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct: really beautiful, but it’s best not to get too distracted. Although it might seem a no more than a "scenic walk", never underestimate the Vallée Blanche as it is a route that develops...

Easy but airy climb up the entire ridge to the top of the pillar. While the rock is generally excellent, tale care where the crest is somewhat thinner. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists...

The arête has four short vertical sections, linked by less steep terrain. Paradiso Ritrovato follows the crest as best possible, up excellent rock. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists hope the route remains in this...

Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...