The routes

The easiest route up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, first ascended by Andrea Simonini in 2015

First ascended from the ground-up in 2003 with 8mm bolts, this nice 250m route takes a line up the left-hand side of the Gran Vernel buttress, the large east-facing wall which looks onto Lake Fedaia. The rock tends to be...

Pleasant climb that breaches the steep yellow section up the centre of the SE Face of Col dei Bos, to the left of Via Francesa put up by Paolo Da Pozzo and Giuseppe Ghedina.

This route follows the large corner up the middle of the wall to the large roofs at half height. From here it continues leftwards, shares a belay with Thriller and Balbic and continues up slabs and cracks between the two....

Lucertolaia on Lastoni di Formin in the Italian Dolomites is a route with a both traditional and modern feel to it, almost Californian with belays that are mainly bolted and the pitches that need protecting with trad gear as they...

Madre Roccia climbs the right side of Specchio di Sara on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites). The route was first ascenedd between 2022 and 2023 by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani, with difficulties up to...

Beautiful, logial and direct climbing up the SW Face of Torre dei Sabbioni. The route shares the first 3 meters of Diretta Livanos beore continuting directly up the obvious cracks towards the series of corners.

Route first ascended from the ground up using 10mm stainless steel bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend, as well as long quickdraws...

First ascended from the ground-up in 2007 with stainless steel bolts, Mastro Lindo takes a line to the right of Linea d'ombra. The second pitch is hard but well protected, all remaining pitches are fun up a series of pockets...

Mente Demente climbs up the righthand side of the face, between the routes Anita (Massarotto-Salvestro 1984) and Massarotto - Bellin - Sansonne - Zonta (1992). The start is situated on the long grassy ledge that cuts across the wall, next...

The route climbs straight through the yellow section, clearly visible from San Gaetano di Valstagna (Valbrenta). Momento Libero is pleasant routerecommended to those who want to climb off the beaten track. The route offers both technnicaly slabs and steep overhangs...

Multicolor is the first route on Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper, established with bolts except for the characteristic crack pitch which takes trad gear. The route climbs smooth black Dolomite slabs and then continues up the overhanging face. At present...

A modern bolt route first ascended from the ground which climbs the smooth slabs of the tower. The route ascends a compact vertical rock face and offers great mid-grade climbing. Given the route's difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is...

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...