The routes

A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding....

Electric Avenue is an interesting addition to the Gendarme des Cosmiques, only the third route on the granite monolith after Digital Crack (1990) and Arête Cosmiques (2013) and at 7b the easiest way to the summit. Note that if you climb...

This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...

An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...

End of the Flare climbs the prominent flake offwidth crack seen from the road close to Fornolosa. The first pitch is hidden in the trees and offers powerful and pumpy climbing.

Short but interesting outing up the South Face, forged ground-up with 10mm bolts over three days in June 2013.

Fat Tony climbs the leftwards diagonal crack with great difficulty until the roof is reached. After bathanging, continue to glory...!

A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...

Located at Nid Des Hirondelles, the first crag to be bolted in Valgrisenche, Fessura di Gianfri climbs the obvious diagonal crack that splits the huge overhang.

Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…

Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.

Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...

Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...

L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...