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04.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites

Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.

03.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites

The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.

03.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme

The film 80's Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes, featuring some of the most important moments in British sport climbing during the 1980s. Featuring Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt and Johnny Dawes.

01.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto

Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of Mont Blanc. The so-called Super Integrale de Peutèrey, or Frêney trilogy, was climbed in 1982 by the great Italian mountaineer Renato Casarotto alone and in winter during an epic ascent that has gone down in the history of mountaineering as one of the all-time greatest climbs.

31.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview

Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+ and increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.

31.07.2020 by Alexey Rubtsov in Climbing

Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia

Alexey Rubtsov reports about the huge bouldering potential at Djan Tugan in the Caucasus in Russia where he has established 30 boulder problems up to 8B+. The Russian bouldering champ has described the area as 'new world-class bouldering area’.

29.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Carnati makes his Moon Landing 9a at Passo della Presolana

At Passo della Presolana in Northern Italy Stefano Carnati has made the first free ascent of Moon Landing 9a.

28.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel

A petition has been launched to support the Saluz family who run the hotel, campsite and restaurant in Magic Wood in Switzerland and are recognised as being the true custodians for one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world.

28.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview

Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

27.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Siebe Vanhee repeats Orbayu, 8c multi-pitch on Naranjo de Bulnes in Picos de Europa

On 25/07/2020 Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee completed a rare one-day free-ascent of Orbayu (8c/500m) on Picu Urriellu (Naranjo De Bulnes) in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain.

26.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Laura Rogora climbs 9b at Rodellar in Spain!

At Rodellar in Spain Laura Rogora has redpointed Ali hulk sit extension total, becoming only the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

25.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra climbing Genius Loci at Paklenica in Croatia

The video of Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Genius Loci at Paklenica in Croatia, a 9a variation start to the historic Il Maratoneta.

24.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia

Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci 9a which adds a variation start to Il Maratoneta.

24.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.

23.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Drew Ruana uncut on Box Therapy, Daniel Woods’ 8C+ boulder problem at RMNP

The video of Drew Ruana making the first repeat of Box Therapy, the 8C+ boulder problem established by Daniel Woods in Rocky Mountain National Park, USA.

23.07.2020 by Claude Gardien in Alpinism

Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award

French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.

22.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Karwendel climbing: on Repswand Manhartsberger and Gössinger establish Prime Time

On Repswand in the Karwendel massif, Austria, Peter Manhartsberger and Klaus Gössinger have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch alpine sports climb Prime Time.

21.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sardinia rock climbing: Aleksandra Taistra repeats big multi-pitches Unchinos and Amico Fragile

In Sardinia the Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has repeated two difficult multi-pitches: Unchinos at Badde Pentumas and Amico Fragile at Monte Donneneittu.

21.07.2020 by Federica Mingolla in Alpinism

Federica Mingolla simply Incroyable on Mont Blanc’s Red Pillar of Brouillard

Italian mountaineer Federica Mingolla reports about the first integral ascent, with Leonardo Gheza, of Incroyable, the rock climb established just a few days ago on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. Mingolla repeated the route a few hours after having climbed the historic Ratti - Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey with Lorenzo Pernigotti.

20.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Sébastien Berthe blasts up Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

Climbing with David Leduc, on Friday 17 July Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe made a singe-day repeat of Bellavista, the difficult multi-pitch on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites.




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