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08.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Pol Roca Lopez adds Animalistic 8c Deep Water Solo to Mallorca

Spanish climber Pol Roca Lopez has made the first ascent of Animalistic, an 8c Deep Water Solo climb on the island of Mallorca.

08.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12

On Thursday 8 October 2020 at 12:00 the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, will be streamed on gazzetta.it and ilfestivaldellosport.it

06.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo

Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.

04.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Video: Sébastien Bouin climbing Biographie at Céüse

The video of French climber Seb Bouin repeating Biographie, the 9a+ at Céüse freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma. Featuring Arnaud Petit and Sylvain Millet.

02.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Mathew Wright repeats Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor

22-year old British rock climber Mathew Wright has made a rare ascent of Hubble, the Ben Moon masterpiece at Raven Tor. First ascended in 1990 and hailed as the world’s first 8c+, this is increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.

02.10.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Cool crack climbing below bridge in Edinburgh

Robbie Phillips, Pete Whittaker, Tom Randall and Culann O’Brien crack climbing below an overpass in Edinburgh, Scotland

Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili

In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.

30.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain

Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated El Bon Combat, the 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain established in 2015 by Chris Sharma.

30.09.2020 by Martin Sieberer in Alpinism

Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer

Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.

29.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella, Yannick Glatthard discover their Ying Yang on Gross Wellhorn

On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.

28.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway

Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.

28.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint

Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.

25.09.2020 by Barbara Vigl in Alpinism

Nebelgeist climbed by Simon Messner, Barbara Vigl on Schüsselkar, Austria

Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.

24.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Simon Lorenzi sends Quoi de neuf classic roof bloc at Orsay in France

The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.

24.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch

In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the Dolomites.

22.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra climbing Beginning, Stefano Ghisolfi's endurance test at Arco

The video of Adam Ondra making the first repeat, thanks to a cunning kneebar, of Beginning, the route freed in May 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy.

21.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Gorropu featuring Aleksandra Taistra, film streaming today at 21

The film Gorropu, a portrait of Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra repeating the famous multi-pitch Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, will be streamed on Monday 21 September 2020 from 21:00 to 24:00 on the website ferrino.it.

20.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series

A video tribute to John Gill, considered by many the father of modern bouldering, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.

18.09.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Space Vertigo freed by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini

The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

17.09.2020 by Guide del Cervino in Alpinism

Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible

The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.




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