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Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
08/11/2023 - Alpinism
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
From 29 - 31 October 2023 Czech mountaineers Jakub Vlček and Marek Disman have made the first ascent of 'Honzova cesta' on Tengi Ragi Tau (6938m) in Rolwaling Himal, Nepal.
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Juan Señoret from Chile and Christophe 'Tof' Henry from France died on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile. Both were undisputed reference points for mountaineering and extreme skiing, and the loss of these two will be felt for years.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
29/09/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
The South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl has made the solo first ascent of 'Identität' solo, a new route up the west face of the Mittlerer Zwölfer / Croda Antonio Berti in the Sexten and Auronzo Dolomites.
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Alessandro Zeni wires 'Wu Wei,' 9a multipitch in Val Nuvola established with Riccardo Scarian
13/09/2023 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni wires 'Wu Wei,' 9a multipitch in Val Nuvola established with Riccardo Scarian
On 16 August 2023 Italian climber Ale Zeni made the first free ascent of 'Wu Wei,' a 5-pitch route on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo (Val Nuvola, Vette Feltrine) that features difficulties up to 9a. If the grade is confirmed, it can be considered one of...
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years
Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and his first new route since 1997.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.

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