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Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain
03/11/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+ at Clark Mountain
On 01/11/2022 French climber Sébastien Bouin made the first ascent of the direct start to Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain. The new variation is called Suprême Jumbo Love and graded 9b+.
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
01/11/2022 - Climbing
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Stefano Ghisolfi on Silence: breaking the beta on crux #1
08/09/2022 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi on Silence: breaking the beta on crux #1
In the third episode of Stefano Ghisolfi attempting Silence at Flatanger in Norway the 29-year-old climber from Italy attempts the famous first crux.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK
12/08/2022 - Alpinism
Will Bosi fearless on Honey Badger, new 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove, UK
Scottish rock climber William Bosi has made the first ascent of Honey Badger, an 8C+ boulder problem at Badger Cove in the Peak District, UK.
K2 summit success for François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Pietro Picco
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
K2 summit success for François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Pietro Picco
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco and Jerome Perruquet summited K2 on 28 July 2022. The three climbed the second highest mountain in the world without supplementary oxygen, and all are now safely in base camp.
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
20/07/2022 - Alpinism
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
On Tuesday 19 July 2022 Italian mountaineers Pietro Picco and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) without supplementary oxygen. This is Camandona's twelfth eightthousander without O2.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
14/07/2022 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
At Colle dell'Orso close to Frosolone (Molise, Italy) Pietro Radassao has made the first ascent of Homo Vitruvianus 8c+.
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
13/07/2022 - Alpinism
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Basque mountaineers Eneko and Iker Pou, together with Peruvian mountaineer  Micher Quito, have made the first ascent of One Push on the SW Face of Pumahuacanca in Peru, describing the 1000m line as 'brutal' and 'the hardest high mountain route of our career.'

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