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Cerro Nora Oeste in Patagonia first ascent by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cerro Nora Oeste in Patagonia first ascent by Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera
On 24/11/2023 Italian mountaineers Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of the unclimbed Cerro Nora Oeste above the Campo de Hielo Norte glacier in Patagonia, Chile. The expedition included Giovanni Ongaro and Andrea Carretta. Marazzi and Schiera climbed the West Ridge and have called the name 'Zenin'...
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
20/12/2023 - Alpinism
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
Italian mountain guide Francesco Rigon reports about the first ascent of ice climb 'Solo per un sorriso' (WI 5+ 170m), established with Mirco Grasso on Croda di Cacciagrande in the Sorapiss Group (Dolomites) on 19/12/2023.
Watch Adam Ondra free Chicken Nose (9a+) at Isenfluh, Switzerland
18/12/2023 - Climbing
Watch Adam Ondra free Chicken Nose (9a+) at Isenfluh, Switzerland
The video of Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chicken Nose (9a+) at Isenfluh in Switzerland.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
07/12/2023 - Climbing
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
20/11/2023 - Climbing
Miška Izakovičová makes free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan, Yosemite
Supported by climbing partner Karel Nováček, Michaela Izakovičová from Slovakia has made a free ascent of 'Golden Gate' on El Capitan in Yosemite. The 34-year-old from Bratislava provides the details of this classic big wall, established in September 2000 by German brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
06/11/2023 - Alpinism
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
Swiss mountaineers Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi and Nathan Alexandre Monard have made the first ascent of the unclimbed north face of Flat Top (6057m) in the Kishtwar region of India. Called 'Tomorrow is another day', the 1400m line was climbed alpine style from 3 - 7 October and breaches difficulties...
Anak Verhoeven climbs 8b trad roof crack at Vadiello in Spain
30/10/2023 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven climbs 8b trad roof crack at Vadiello in Spain
Belgian rock climber Anak Verhoeven has made the first female ascent of 'La Fuerza de la Gravedad', an 8b trad roof crack at Vadiello in Spain.
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).

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