195 News found

The October climbing in Sardinia report provided by Maurizio Oviglia: Capo Pecora, Jurassic Park and a series of new modern multi-pitch rock climbs.

Maurizio Oviglia introduces 'Marinaio di foresta' (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).

In August Carlo Cosi, Enrico Geremia, Nicolò Geremia and Andrea Simonini climbed two new routes up the impressive West Face of Lower Guvercinlik (3000m), Aladaglar: Atomic Folder (600m, 7b+/c (1pA1), 7b obl, RS3) and Mostro Turco (650m, 8a (2pA1), 7b+obl, S3+).

The second news report from Italy's Orco Valley by Maurizio Oviglia: the crags Sitting Bull and Dado that offer a interesting mix of sport climbing, trad and aid.

Maurizio Oviglia and Massimiliano Celano introduce the new cliff Altrolato and its routes on the dark side of the Orco valley.

Turkish climbers Zorbey Aktuyun and Evren Kirazlı have carried out the the first repeat of Üç Muz (650m, 8a), the route first climbed in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of Demirkazik, Ala Daglar, Turkey.

A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Rataplan (175m, 7a+ max (6b obligatory) /RS2/I), a new multi-pitch climb first ascended together with Damiano Ceresa on 1 August and freed a few days later with with Cecilia Marchi up the Parete della Grande Ala, Chiapili di Sotto, Valle dell'Orco in Italy.

Ivo Ferrari and diamonds are forever. On via Diamante pazzo (250m, 6a+) the beautiful route established in 1984 by Roberto Perucca and Rinaldo Sartore up the East Face of Becco Meridionale della Tribolazione, Gran Paradiso, Italy. With a text by Gianmario Bellini in memory of Roberto Perucca.

The 35th International Outdoor Sport Festival took place from 28 June to 2 July in the small village of Kemaliye in Central-Eastern Turkey, on the banks of the beautiful limestone canyon formed by the river Euphrates.

In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud Petit.

On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of...

Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...

Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.

30 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia returns to "Anche gli eroi hanno paura - Even heroes feel fear" the route first ascended by Alessandro Cattaneo, Beppe Domenichelli, Mondo Liggi, Cecilia Marchi and Bruno Poddesuin in Sardinia's Sette Fratelli massif in 1983 and freed by Oviglia and Roberto Monchino...

Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.