1644 News found

Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.

Toru Nakajima has made the first ascent of 'Regret' at Ena in Japan. No grade has been put forward as yet but this 3-move problem promises to be intense.

On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.

Scottish climber William Bosi has made the second ascent of 'Return of the Sleepwalker', the 9A/V17 at Red Rocks, USA, established by Daniel Woods in 2021. Bosi made the ascent after 12 sessions and has now climbed 3 boulders at the world’s hardest grade.

Italian climber Elias Iagnemma attempting 'Burden of Dreams', the 9A boulder problem at Lappnor in Finland established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016.

The video of Germany's Florian Wientjes making the second ascent of Floatin, the 8C+ put up by Ryuchi Murai in 2021 at Mizugaki in Japan.

On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).

On Saturday 20 January William Bosi repeated 'Sleepwalker' at Red Rocks, USA. First ascended by Jimmy Webb in 2018 at 8C+ and repeated on various occasions, Bosi has now suggested a downgrade from 8C+ to 8C.

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) has issued the following comprehensive position statement regarding the critical issue of electromagnetic interference (EMI) with avalanche transceivers.

On 20/12/2023 Japanese climber Tomoa Narasaki flashed 'Gakido', a boulder problem at Chigobudau previously rated 8C+. After using a slightly different sequence, Narasaki suggested 8B+. He then freed the sitstart project at 8C, calling it 'Ashuradō'.

Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 4 January 2024 made the first repeat of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and originally graded 9b+, Megos believes the route warrants 9b.

American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first ascent of The Dark Side, an 8C+ boulder problem in Yosemite Valley, USA.

On 27 December 2023 26-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi repeated Burden of Dreams at Lappnor in Finland, claiming his third 9A boulder problem after Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland and Soudain Seul at Fontainebleau in France.

Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has repeated Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland. Success caps a stellar year for Schubert who in September made the first ascent of BIG (9c) at Flatanger in Norway.

From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.