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Cerro Torre East Face new route!
16/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre East Face new route!
On 13/11/2004 at 21.00 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Giacomo Rossetti reached the top of Cerro Torre via a new direct route up the East Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
09/11/2004 - Climbing
Kalymnos Rock Festival report
At the start of October more than 500 climbers from all over the world gathered in Kalymnos for the second Kalymnos Rock Climbing Festival.
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
Ogden and Martin hard and free in Greenland
14/10/2004 - Alpinism
Ogden and Martin hard and free in Greenland
Americans Jared Ogden and Nathan Martin complete a new free line on Nalumasortoq’s 2,000-foot face, Greenland.
Greenland 2004
17/09/2004 - Alpinism
Greenland 2004
At the start of August a four-man team composed of Sergio Dalla Longa, Rosa Morotti, Ennio and Giangi Angeloni travelled to the south of Greenland to explore the immense granite walls that tower above the fjords and glaciers.
K2: first repeat of
09/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2: first repeat of "Magic line" dedicated to Manel De La Matta
the Catalan expedition and the first repeat of the magic line on K2, Himalaya.
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
02/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy
On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line expedition 2004", made the first repeat of K2's Magic Line. Manuel de la Matta died during the descent.
Glowacz and Dorfleitner 'Last Exit Titlis' 8b
09/08/2004 - Climbing
Glowacz and Dorfleitner 'Last Exit Titlis' 8b
Stefan Glowacz has freed 'Last Exit Titlis' 8b on the isolated Titlis (3020m), Sustenpass, Urner Alps together with Markus Dorfleitner.
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
28/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
At 9.45 local time on 28 July 2004, Mario Lacedelli and Luciano Zardini reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top together with the Swiss Mountain Guide Michel Andre Wirdt, a Sherpa and and the Pakistani high altitude porter Mohamed Sanap Akam.
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
27/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 Scoiattoli summit success!
On 27 July 2004 at 7.15 local time Mario Dibona, Renato Sottsass, Marco Da Pozzo and Renzo Benedetti reached the summit of K2, 8611m. They reached the top of the second highest mountain in the world together with Mingma Sherpa and Thilen Sherpa.
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
26/07/2004 - Alpinism
K2 summit for Italian Da Polenza expedition and Spanish Al filo de lo imposible.
At 13,30 CET Silvio Mondinelli and Karl Unterchirker reached the summit of K2, followed by Walter Nones, Michele Compagnoni and Ugo Giacomelli at 14.15 (17.15 local time). At roughly 17.50 (local time) four members of the Spanish "Al filo de lo imposible” expedition, Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Juan Vallejo...
Amahuagaychu, Peru, F.A.
22/07/2004 - Alpinism
Amahuagaychu, Peru, F.A.
On 11 June 2004, Mauro Florit, Massimo Sacchi and Marco Sterni reached the previously unclimbed summit of Amahuagaychu 5134m, in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, via their new route (500m, VII, A2).
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
15/06/2004 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route by Orlandi, Codò and Fava
On 7 February 2004 the Italians Elio Orlandi and Luca Fava, and the Argentine Horacio Codò reached the summit of Chalten - Fitz Roy (Patagonia) via the new "Linea di Eleganza" , graded ED+ 6c/A3 90°/M7,
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
01/06/2004 - Alpinism
Russians summit Everest by new North Face route
At 09.15am on 30/05/2004 three Russian climbers, Pasha Shabalin, Ilyas Tuhvatullin and Andrey Mariev reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face.
Jannu North Face success
26/05/2004 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face success
Alexandre Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko of the Jannu North Face expedition Spring 2004 have successfully summited the North Face 7710m
Everest 2004, records and storms
25/05/2004 - Alpinism
Everest 2004, records and storms
Last week 5 mountaineers died on Everest, while Sherpa Pemba Dorji climbed from Base Camp to the aummit in just 8 hours 10 minutes

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