K2 Magic line for Jordi Cormoinas: success and tragedy

On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004", made the first repeat of K2's Magic Line. Manuel de la Matta died during the descent.

Planetmountain.com

September 2004

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On 16 August 2004 at 24.00, Jordi Cormoinas, the leader of the Catalan "Tarragona Magic Line Expedition 2004", reached the summit of K2 via the Magic Line, without the use of supplementary oxygen. In doing so he made the historic first repeat of what is considered the hardest and most demanding climbs on the Great mountain, first ascended in 1986 by Petr Bozik, Przemystaw Piasecki and Wojciech WrÃ².

But, as so often happens on K2, success was followed by tragedy: Manel de la Matta, who together with Oscar Cadiach had abandoned the attempt at 8300m, died during the descent. The two Spanish mountaineers had descended to Camp 1, established above Col Negrotto, when Manuel de la Matta fell ill. Bad weather hindered rescue attempts from Base Camp, and Oscar Cadiach could do nothing to prevent his companion from dying.

The Catalan's summit is without a doubt the most important Himalayan undertaking this season, and definitely the most important ascent during the 50th anniversary. Jordi Cormoinas and his teammates crowned a dream. A dream they fought for intensely for over three months. Success though was achieved by paying the highest price of all: the death of one of their companions.

The Magic line had been Manuel de la Matta's dream, just like it had been for Wojciech WrÃ², one of the three who carried out the first ascent along the SSW Face, described by Reinhold Messner as âmagicâ. WrÃ², too, died whilst descending from K2. It's not new: before heading off for this mountain, or for many other mountains, anything can happen, the risks are enormous. And, as usual, words fail, there's no "because" that fully explain this dark side of mountaineering. It's worth treasuring this, at all times, not only when the tragedy has occurred...

Photo: K2 summit (ph Giuseppe Ghedina).