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Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
26/04/2010 - Climbing
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
The official website of the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 in Arco is now online. The portal also hosts all the information about the next edition of the classic Rock Master competition which has been brought forward to July 2010 as a World Championship pre-event.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Buoux Face Ouest reopens to climbing
    22/04/2010 - Climbing
    Buoux Face Ouest reopens to climbing
    After 25 years the climbing ban at Face Ouest at Buoux has now been lifted.
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    Rainbow Slab is arguably the jewel in the crown of Llanberis slate. The immense, smooth face is broken by a series of smaller ripples and of course by the rainbow itself, a pulsing vein which arches steeply in all its beauty from right to left.
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    30/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    26/03/2010 - Climbing
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
    Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
    18/03/2010 - Climbing
    Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
    Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.
    25th Pierra Menta
    16/03/2010 - Competitions
    25th Pierra Menta
    The four day ski mountaineering marathon in Arêches-Beaufort (France) was won by the Spanish-Swiss team comprised of Kilian Jornet Burgada and Florent Troillet. The women's event was won by the Italians Francesca Martinelli and Roberta Pedranzini.
    La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
    04/03/2010 - Alpinism
    La Piovra, new icefall on Monte Derbianco, Switzerland
    On 13/02/2010 Nikita Uboldi, Ean Barelli and Andrea Cairoli carried out the first ascent of La Piovra (4. WI6- M7R A1), in the Prosito mountain range in Canton Ticino, Switzerland
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    03/03/2010 - Climbing
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
    Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
    23/02/2010 - Competitions
    Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
    The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
    Ouray Ice Festival 2010
    17/01/2010 - Events
    Ouray Ice Festival 2010
    The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...
    Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
    24/12/2009 - Climbing
    Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
    One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.
    Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
    16/12/2009 - Climbing
    Sandro Neri: 10 years for Emicrania
    After 10 years of trying the Italian climber Sandro Neri has managed to repeat Emicrania 8b at Ceresera (Belluno).
    Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
    24/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Jasemba SSE Face success for Simon & Samuel Anthamatten and Michi Lerjen
    Interview with Samuel Anthamatten after the first ascent of the South-South-East Face of Jasemba, Nepal via their Hook or Crook (VI, 1550m, 90°, M5.
    Dean Potter voted Adventurer of the Year by National Geographic
    20/11/2009 - Book-press
    Dean Potter voted Adventurer of the Year by National Geographic
    American rock climber Dean Potter has been named Adventurer of the year by National Geographic Adventure Magazine.

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