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Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of 'Wolf Kingdom' (9b+) at Pic Saint Loup
27/12/2024 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of 'Wolf Kingdom' (9b+) at Pic Saint Loup
On 14/11/2024 Sébastien Bouin made the first ascent of 'Wolf Kingdom' (9b+) at Pic Saint Loup, France.
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
26/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
The video of the first repeat and first winter ascent of the 'Directissime' on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, carried out from 9 to 13 February 2023 by French alpinists Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin and Symon Welfringer. The route was established in summer 1986...
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
19/12/2024 - Interviews
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
Interview with 55-year-old German climber Alexander Huber after the first ascent of 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine in the Berchtesgadener Alps. The redpoint follows the first ascent of the 8b multipitch 'Überleben' (8b) at Brendelberg in July 2024 and after undergoing brain surgery at the start of the year.
New mixed climb 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites
12/12/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites
Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent, carried out with Mathieu Maynadier and Francesco Favilli on 5 January 2024, of the mixed route 'Birthday Crack' in Vallunga / Langental, Dolomites, Italy. A way to remember Favilli, who died tragically in the mountains this summer along with Filippo Zanin.
Video: Sea to Summit, a 65-day big wall climbing expedition to Greenland
06/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Sea to Summit, a 65-day big wall climbing expedition to Greenland
Join Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Angela Vanwiemeersch, Kelsey Watts and Zack Goldberg-Poch, along with professional film maker Jaron Pham, as they embark on their 65-day by-fair-means expedition in 2022 to establish new big walls in NW Greenland.
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
05/12/2024 - Alpinism
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
The report by Italian mountain guide Saro Costa of his Alpin’ Ticino Project, ie the link-up from 19 to 30 October 2024 of the 42 3000-meter mountains in the Ticino Alps in Switzerland. The only mountain not summited, due to too much snow and lack of daylight, was Kastelhorn.
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
27/11/2024 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl frees has made the first free ascent of 'Blutsbrüder', the multipitch he established with Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer in autumn 2022 on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites.
Christoph Hainz makes first ascent of 'Dolomiti Race' on Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites)
08/11/2024 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz makes first ascent of 'Dolomiti Race' on Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites)
Last summer South Tyrolean mountain guide Christoph Hainz made the first ascent, ground-up and rope-solo, of 'Dolomiti Race' on Piz Ciavazes in the Sella group of the Dolomites, Italy.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
Video: Michaela Kiersch bouldering in Rocklands
29/10/2024 - Climbing
Video: Michaela Kiersch bouldering in Rocklands
Watch American climber Michaela Kiersch bouldering in Rocklands in summer 2024, where she sent a long list of hard climbs including Amandla 8B+ despite a fractured finger.
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
28/10/2024 - Climbing
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria and Tatjana Goex
Toby Roberts climbs Gancho Perfecto (9a+) in Margalef
17/10/2024 - Climbing
Toby Roberts climbs Gancho Perfecto (9a+) in Margalef
British climber Toby Roberts has climbed his hardest sport climb to date, Gancho Perfecto (9a+) in Margalef, Spain.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Remains of Andrew Irvine believed to have been found below Everest
11/10/2024 - Alpinism
Remains of Andrew Irvine believed to have been found below Everest
In September 2024 a National Geographic team comprised of Jimmy Chin, Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher discovered what they believe to be remains of British mountaineer Andrew Irvine. The climber was last seen 100 years ago with George Mallory on the NE Ridge of Everest during their historic attempt to...

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