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Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar....
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
13/01/2023 - Alpinism
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
The docufilm The High Life that tells the story of Sarah Cartier and her young family, the hut wardens of Refuge de la Charpoua below Les Drus and Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
04/01/2023 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
Brette Harrington has made a rare free ascent of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo, 270m) on Punta Giradili in Sardinia, Italy.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy feat. ice climbing in Piedmont
25/12/2022 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour Italy feat. ice climbing in Piedmont
The Petzl Legend Tour Italy is back in its winter garb and goes back to the roots of ice climbing in the Piedmontese valleys in Northern Italy.
Marco Milanese's BASE jump from the Dolomites Vajolet Towers
20/12/2022 - Alpinism
Marco Milanese's BASE jump from the Dolomites Vajolet Towers
Paralpinism in the Dolomites: on 02/11/2022 Marco Milanese made a free solo and base jump from Torre Delago (2790m), one of the major Vajolet Towers in the Rosengarten massif, Italy.
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
16/11/2022 - Alpinism
The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
01/11/2022 - Climbing
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
21/09/2022 - Interviews
Tim Howell completes North Base paralpinism Project on 6 great North Faces of the Alps
British mountaineer Tim Howell has completed his ambitious North Base Project which aimed to climb and fly the six great North Faces of the Alps. Depending on the mountain, the 33-year-old Brit either made a wingsuit flight or BASE jump....
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
03/08/2022 - Alpinism
monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto have made the first ascent of ‘Su e giù' on monte La Banca (2680m) close to the San Pellegrino Pass in the Dolomites, Italy. The new rock climb in the Marmolada group is dedicated to...
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
21/07/2022 - Alpinism
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
On 12 July Swiss mountaineers Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrügg made a swift enchainment of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, climbing the classic skyline in 13 hours, 8 minutes and 49 seconds.
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Delicatessen in Corsica's Bavella repeated by Romy Fuchs, Lara Neumeier
28/04/2022 - Alpinism
Delicatessen in Corsica's Bavella repeated by Romy Fuchs, Lara Neumeier
Delicatessen on Punta d’u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica has been repeated by Romy Fuchs and Lara Neumeier from Germany. The 120m 8b was established by Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson in 1992 and is regarded as one...
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
04/04/2022 - Alpinism
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
The report by Courmayeur mountain guide Gianluca Marra who, with his colleague Niccolò Bruni, has established Goulotte Desperados, a new mixed climb on that climbs the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif.

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