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Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
20/08/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon
The video of Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022 with Carlos Molina from Argentina climbed 7 routes in 24 hours on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
19/07/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Watch Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing in the Karakorum
06/06/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing in the Karakorum
The video 'A New Way Up' directed by Jake Holland, featuring Fabian Buhl and Will Sim paragliding and climbing above the Hunza Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum. Using this groundbreaking paralpinism approach the pair made the first ascent of the Gulmit Tower (5801m) in July 2022.
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
10/05/2023 - Climbing
Michele Caminati tiptoes up Toewalker, small trad gem at Bozen
The report by Michele Caminati who has made the first ascent of Toewalker on the porphyry crags at Bozen in the South Tyrol, Italy. The single-pitch trad climb is graded E7 6c.
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
31/12/2022 - Climbing
Two multi-pitch climbs rebolted at Masua in Sardinia, Italy
At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...

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