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Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
James Pearson makes first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
02/10/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson makes first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. Freed by Jacopo Larcher in 2021, this dangerous trad climb is located on a large boulder at the base of Sergent.
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
06/09/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
On 01/09/2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz climbed the four ridges of the Matterhorn in 7 hours 43 minutes and 45 seconds. Furggen Ridge ascent, Hörnli Ridge descent, Zmutt Ridge ascent and Lion's Ridge descent, without external support and gear stashes on the mountain.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
10/07/2024 - Climbing
Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
08/07/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese establish Dream House on Nevado Quitaraju in Peru
From 25 - 29 June 2024 the Japanese climbers Keisuke Ohkura, Kazumasa Ostubo and Yudai Suzuki made the first ascent of 'Dream House' (1240m, M6, AI5+, A2, R/X, VI) on the Quitaraju (6036m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent. The Belgian climber, who in 2023 flashed the adjacent 'Le...
Jacopo Larcher & The Traditionalist: trad climbing in Yosemite Valley
15/03/2024 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher & The Traditionalist: trad climbing in Yosemite Valley
The first episode of The Traditionalist a new 3-part film series following Jacopo Larcher, as he explores hard trad climbing around the world.
James Pearson makes first repeat of Franco Cookson's bold trad climb Immortal
29/01/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson makes first repeat of Franco Cookson's bold trad climb Immortal
British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of the trad climb 'Immortal' at Maiden's Bluff, Yorkshire, UK

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