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Oriane Bertone, Dohyun Lee win first-ever Boulder World Cup gold at Prague
05/06/2023 - Competitions
Oriane Bertone, Dohyun Lee win first-ever Boulder World Cup gold at Prague
Last weekend Oriane Bertone of France and Lee Dohyun of South Korea claimed their first-ever World Cup gold medals by winning the Prague stage of the Boulder World Cup 2023. Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret claim silver, Flavy Cohaut and Mejdi Schalck bronze.
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
22/05/2023 - Climbing
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
The cliff Paligremnos - Plakias on the island of Crete in Greece has been declared a monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage. A recent Greek court order now prohibits the construction of a tourist resort above the crag which was at risk of closure. The rock and beach below are...
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
17/04/2023 - Climbing
Zanzara Sud climbed free on Monte Colodri at Arco, Italy, by Marco Cordin
The report by Italian aspirant mountain guide Marco Cordin about the first one-day free ascent of Zanzara Sud. Established ground-up by Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti and Franco Cavallaro, this multi-pitch route tackles the south face of the famous Zanzara pillar. The spectacular 8b crux pitch had previously been freed by...
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Chris Sharma frees his Sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
30/03/2023 - Climbing
Chris Sharma frees his Sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
On 28 March 2023 Chris Sharma completed the first ascent of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Graded 9b+, this is the 41-year-old's most difficult first ascent to date and one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
16/03/2023 - Climbing
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
Will Bosi is currently in Finland attempting Burden of Dreams (9A), the hardest boulder problem in the world established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016. The Scottish climber is streaming his progress live on Instagram.
Pierra Menta 2023 won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret - Emily Harrop & Michele Boscacci - Davide Magnini
15/03/2023 - Competitions
Pierra Menta 2023 won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret - Emily Harrop & Michele Boscacci - Davide Magnini
The 37th Pierra Menta, ski mountaineering's equivalent of Tour de France, took place from 8 to 11 March 2023 and was won by Michele Boscacci & Davide Magnini from Italy and by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret & Emily Harrop from France.
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
On 8 March 2023 Christina Lusti Lustenberger and Andrew McNab made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the striking SW Couloir of Mount Niflheim in British Colombia, Canada.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
01/03/2023 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
Japanese rock climber Keita Kurakami provides thoughtful insight into the mentality behind his first ascent of the boulder problem 'Discovery' on the island of Yakushima, Japan.
Florian Wientjes sends his first 8C+, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona
22/02/2023 - Climbing
Florian Wientjes sends his first 8C+, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona
Last Saturday German climber Florian Wientjes sent his first 8C+ boulder problem, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
18/02/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first winter solo traverse of the Geislerspitzen - Odles (Villnöß - Funes) in the Dolomites.
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
15/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (Aosta Valley) by Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina, Giovanni Ravizza
On 31 January 2023 Niccolò Bruni, Marco Farina and Giovanni Ravizza established two 'amazing' mixed climbs on Piccolo San Bernardo (La Thuile, Valle d'Aosta): 'Tutte le Guide del Presidente' and 'Sento puzza di fuoco'.
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
02/02/2023 - Climbing
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
At Cresciano in Switzerland 23-year-old German athlete Yannick Flohe has made the first ascent of the 8C+ boulder problem 'Return of the Dreamtime'.
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
23/01/2023 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
The 2023 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place in Andorra last weekend. The Individual race was won on Saturday by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Thibault Anselmet, while Gachet-Mollaret and Rémi Bonnet won the Vertical race on Sunday.

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