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A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
27/06/2013 - Climbing
A great day out: 5 Walter Bonatti routes climbed by Marco Anghileri
The great enchainment carried out by Italian alpinist Marco Anghileri on 25 June 2013. 5 routes first climbed by Walter Bonatti: on Bastionata del Resegone, Medale, Torre Costanza, Ago Teresita, Magnaghi. All repeated in a single day. Anghileri travelled by bike or on foot, but above all he climbed. His...
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
25/06/2013 - Alpinism
Argento vivo up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites
From 12 - 15 May Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai established Argento vivo, a new ice and mixed route up the North Face of Piccola Civetta, Dolomites. Alessandro Beber provides the details.
Damai Sentosa, new route on Dragon's Horns in Malaysia
19/06/2013 - Climbing
Damai Sentosa, new route on Dragon's Horns in Malaysia
In April 2013, Stephanie Bodet, Yong Liu, Arnaud Petit, David Kaszlikowski and Tam Khairudin Haja made the first ascent of Damai Sentosa (280m, 6c+, 6b+ oblig) up the Dragon Horns (Bukit Nenek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.
Salewa Rock Show 2013 at Città dei Sassi (Sassolungo, Dolomites)
18/06/2013 - Climbing
Salewa Rock Show 2013 at Città dei Sassi (Sassolungo, Dolomites)
From 15 -16 June the final stage of the Italian Salewa Rock Show 2013 circuit took place at Città dei Sassi (Sassolungo, Sella, Dolomiti) above Val Gardena. Matilda Segui and Danilo Marchionne were elected "Climber of the Day" and will therefore represent Italy at Cube, the enormous Salewa climbing wall...
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
14/06/2013 - Alpinism
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
On 14 May David Lama soloed the Mittelpfeiler route (800m, M5) up Sagwand in the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps, Austria.
Valerio Ballardini and the crag Bus de Vela
09/06/2013 - Climbing
Valerio Ballardini and the crag Bus de Vela
Video by The vertical Eye about Valerio Ballardini, one of the most active bolters of the crag Bus de Vela at Trento, Italy.
Becca di Nona North Face, probable first descent by Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry
Becca di Nona North Face, probable first descent by Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry
On 31/05/2013 Davide Capozzi and Julien Herry carried out what is likely to be the first descent of the north Face of Becca di Nona (3142m) above Aosta.
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
24/05/2013 - Climbing
Raptor: Sardinia's Right Wall climbed by Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of Raptor at Jurassic Park in Sardinia. A 25m high 7b trad climb reminiscent of the famous Right Wall, first climbed by Pete Livesey on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
20/05/2013 - Interviews
Colonne d'Ercole, Civetta Punta Tissi, interview with Alessandro Baù
Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
05/05/2013 - Events
Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
5/05/2013. The last day of the 10th Melloblocco. 10 days of climbing and bouldering to reaffirm the indissoluble bond between Val Masino - Val di Mello and the Melloblockers. All 2,000 climbers have promised to return next year.
Alex Puccio wins the Tierra Boulder Battle in Stockholm
16/04/2013 - Competitions
Alex Puccio wins the Tierra Boulder Battle in Stockholm
The American queen of bouldering Alex Puccio has won this year’s ladies-only boulder competition Stockholm, confirming her fitness for the Boulder World Cup. Matilda Söderlund placed second, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk third.
Grigna Settentrionale, probabile first ski descent by Giacomo Rovida and Ramon Chiodi
Grigna Settentrionale, probabile first ski descent by Giacomo Rovida and Ramon Chiodi
On 5/04/2013 Giacomo Rovida and Ramon Chiodi made the probabile first ski descent down Grigna Settentrionale. The couloir is beautiful, demanding and a long way away from the usual destinations, as Giacomo Rovida explains.
Sperlonga, rock climbing, memories and beauty by Ivo Ferrari
12/04/2013 - Climbing
Sperlonga, rock climbing, memories and beauty by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the simple beauty of climbing: 3 rock climbs at Sperlonga and the pleasure of climbing, of feeling the sun and the rocks, and delving in the past (Fabio Delisi) and present.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
11/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents which all won the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or 2013: Kamet, Shiva, Muztagh Tower, Baitha Brakk (Ogre), Nanga Parbat and Kyashar. The videos were created for the award's celebration of the Piolets d'Or 2013 at Courmayeur by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) and Francesco...
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
11/04/2013 - Climbing
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be...
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
08/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: the incomprehensible universal tie
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.