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James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
Stefano Ghisolfi vs Chris Sharma's Sleeping Lion at Siurana
02/12/2023 - Alpinism
Stefano Ghisolfi vs Chris Sharma's sleeping Lion at Siurana
Watch Stefano Ghisolfi, Jorge Diaz Rullo and Felipe Camargo attempt sleeping Lion, the 9b+ put up by Chris Sharma at Siurana in Spain.
Watch Chris Sharma's attempts on Siurana's Sleeping Lion (9b+)
14/11/2023 - Climbing
Watch Chris Sharma's attempts on Siurana's sleeping Lion (9b+)
Raw attempts of Chris Sharma on his sleeping Lion project at Siurana in Spain, which he freed in March 2023 and graded 9b+.
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte Canin. Dellai reports of the repeat of what is considered...
Chris Sharma frees his Sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
30/03/2023 - Climbing
Chris Sharma frees his sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
On 28 March 2023 Chris Sharma completed the first ascent of sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Graded 9b+, this is the 41-year-old's most difficult first ascent to date and one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
18/02/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first winter solo traverse of the Geislerspitzen - Odles (Villnöß - Funes) in the Dolomites.
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
14/02/2023 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Cerro El Monstruo in Valle Cochamo by Antar Machado, Cristobal Senoret
From 8 - 9 February 2023 Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret have made the first ascent of 'La Chilenita' (1,200m 5.11+ A0) on Cerro El Monstruo, Valle Cochamo, Patagonia, Chile.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
22/11/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Sean Villanueva complete his Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse in the Piolet d'Or 2022 video
The video of Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll which was awarded a Piolets d'Or 2022: the Moonwalk Traverse, ie the solo traverse from south to north of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia, carried out by the Belgian mountaineer from 5 - 10 February 2021.
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
07/06/2022 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their...