201 News found

On 14 and 15 of April 2023 Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko made the first ascent of Troll Toll (600m, M5) on the ENE Face of Mount Morrison in California, USA. Located in the Sherwin Range of the Sierra Nevada, this mountain is also known as the 'Eiger of...

Niccolò Bruni and Giovanni Ravizza have made the first ascent of 'Goulotte Les Dégaines disparu', a new mixed climb on Torrione d'Entrèves above the Toula glacier in the Mont Blanc massif. Bruni reports

On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...

Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...

Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.

Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).

From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.

Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.

On Pizzo Badile in Italy Swiss alpinists Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach have made a winter ascent of the British route, first ascended in 1968 by Mike Kosterlitz and Dick Isherwood.

British mountaineers Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker have climbed Mad Vlad (350m M7 R, IX/8). This is likely to be a new route on the ENE Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif.

On 09/02/2022 François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti made the first ascent of Su Per Cignana on Becca Salé in Valtournenche, Italy, while on 10/02/2022 Cazzanelli and Perruquet made the first ascent of Impulso Geniale on Pointe Adolphe Rey in the Mont Blanc massif.

Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Silverbacks on Ice (M8 WI5 160m)at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland.

Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent of Cold Heart in Val Lasties, Sella Group, Dolomites, first ascended on 13 February 2022 with mountain guide Thomas Mair.

In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.