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Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times
30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
29/08/2022 - Interviews
Silvan Schüpbach and his 7x24 challenge in Wenden
Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
23/08/2022 - Climbing
Angie Scarth-Johnson powers up Pornographie 9a at Céüse
18-year-old Australian rock climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has repeated the 9a Pornographie at Céüse in France.
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
23/08/2022 - Alpinism
On Dolomites Neunerspitze Simon Kehrer, Hubert Eisendle establish La Gana tla Pera
Alpinists Simon Kehrer and Hubert Eisendle from the South Tyrol, Italy, have made the first ascent of 'La Gana tla Pera' on the south face of Neunerspitze / Sasso delle Nove in the Dolomites.
Watch Edu Marín climb Pan Aroma, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
10/08/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Edu Marín climb Pan Aroma, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
The video of Edu Marín and his father Novato Marin making an early repeat of Pan Aroma on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites, carried out in July 2014.
New Rosengarten Rotwand climb by Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster, Martin Sieberer
09/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Rosengarten Rotwand climb by Simon Messner, Philipp Prünster, Martin Sieberer
Simon Messner reports about his new climb 'Männer die auf Wände starren’ on Rotwand / Roda di Vael in the Rosengarten group of the Dolomites, Italy, first ascended with Philipp Prünster and Martin Sieberer.
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
04/08/2022 - Climbing
Rock climbing on Ireland's Gola Island
Iain Miller introduces the rock climbing on Gola Island in Ireland. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal trad climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs.
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
03/08/2022 - Alpinism
Monte La Banca climb in Italian Dolomites dedicated to Davide Miotti
Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto have made the first ascent of ‘Su e giù' on Monte La Banca (2680m) close to the San Pellegrino Pass in the Dolomites, Italy. The new rock climb in the Marmolada group is dedicated to Davide Miotti.
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.
K2 summit success for François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Pietro Picco
29/07/2022 - Alpinism
K2 summit success for François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Pietro Picco
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco and Jerome Perruquet summited K2 on 28 July 2022. The three climbed the second highest mountain in the world without supplementary oxygen, and all are now safely in base camp.
Katherine Choong, Jim Zimmermann repeat Hattori Hanzo, 8b+ multipitch on Titlis North Face
28/07/2022 - Alpinism
Katherine Choong, Jim Zimmermann repeat Hattori Hanzo, 8b+ multipitch on Titlis North Face
Swiss climbers Katherine Choong and Jim Zimmermann have both repeated Hattori Hanzo, the seven pitch 8b+ on the North Face of Titlis above Engelberg in Switzerland, first ascended by Matthias Trottmann.
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
26/07/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin frees Nordic Marathon, 130m 9b/+ at Flatanger
French climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of Nordic Marathon at the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. The 130m line is a combination of different routes and is graded 9b/+
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
21/07/2022 - Climbing
Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall repeat The Quarryman on Llanberis slate in Wales
Both Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall have repeated The Quarryman, the Johnny Dawes classic located in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
21/07/2022 - Alpinism
Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg race across Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau skyline in 13 hours
On 12 July Swiss mountaineers Nicolas Hojac and Adrian Zurbrügg made a swift enchainment of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, climbing the classic skyline in 13 hours, 8 minutes and 49 seconds.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.

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