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Safety fears for Elnaz Rekabi, Iranian climber who competed without hijab in Asian Championships
18/10/2022 - Climbing
Safety fears for Elnaz Rekabi, Iranian climber who competed without hijab in Asian Championships
UPDATE 19/10/2022: According to the BBC, Elnaz Rekabi landed at Tehran airport a few hours ago, and was greeted by a large crowd who called her a "heroine".
- There are mounting fears for the wellbeing of Elnaz Rekabi, the Iranian climber who competed in the Asian Climbing Championships in Seoul...
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
18/10/2022 - Alpinism
First Ascents on Pheker and Mirshikar Peak in Pakistan's Karakorum
A joint Pakistani - French team comprised of Hassan Aljabbal, Adnan Khan, Sebastién Carniato and James Price has made the first traverse of Mirshikar Peak (5464m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. A day earlier, on 02/09/2022, Price opened a new route on nearby Pheker Peak (5465m), completing what is likely to be...
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl
Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in his introduction.
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
12/10/2022 - Climbing
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
German rock climber Michael Wohlleben has made the first ascent of Bodhichitta, a highly technical 5-pitch route on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland.
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Solène Amoros, Katherine Choong repeat Ali Baba at Aiglun in France
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Solène Amoros, Katherine Choong repeat Ali Baba at Aiglun in France
French rock climber Solène Amoros and Katherine Choong from Switzerland have repeated the mythical multipitch sport climb Ali Baba (8a+, 240m) at Aiglun in France.
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
06/10/2022 - Climbing
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Davide Picco sends Ultimatum (9a+) at Massone, Arco, Italy
03/10/2022 - Climbing
Davide Picco sends Ultimatum (9a+) at Massone, Arco, Italy
At the crag Massone above Arco in Italy 29-year-old climber Davide Picco has repeated Ultimatum, a 9a+ established by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2016.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
27/09/2022 - Alpinism
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
UPDATE 28/09/2022: The body of Hilaree Nelson has been found on Manaslu and transported to Kathmandu.
- A huge avalanche on Manalsu in Nepal struck a dozen climbers yesterday, killing Sherpa Anup Rai. In an unrelated incident on the same mountain American ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson is reported missing after skiing...
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
26/09/2022 - Alpinism
Colin Haley completes first winter solo of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo winter ascent of the classic Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Claudia Ghisolfi climbs TCT 9a at Gravere in Italy
24/09/2022 - Climbing
Claudia Ghisolfi climbs TCT 9a at Gravere in Italy
On Wednesday 21 September 2022 at Gravere in Val di Susa, Italy, Claudia Ghisolfi redpointed her first 9a, TCT. After Laura Rogora she is now only the second Italian woman to send 9a.
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
23/09/2022 - Alpinism
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, on 31/08/2021 Austrian climber Louis Gundolf repeated 'Safety Discussion', a difficult multipitch established in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner on the South Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria.