623 News found

British rock climber Dave Birkett has carried out the first ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, Devon, England.

On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).

From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.

From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.

Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.

On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...

Iker and Eneko Pou from Spain have repeated Zahir 8b+ on the Wendenstöcke, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

Roland Mittersteiner and Oliver Renzler have carried out the first free ascent of "40 anni rifugio Falier", established by Igor Koller and Dino Kuran in 1993 with the use of aid and now graded 7c+.

On 6 August Fredrik Ericsson fell to his death from the Bottleneck on K2. The Swedish alpinist was climbing with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria who descended safely to Base Camp. Kaltenbrunner's husband Ralf Dujmovit provides the details about the accident.

The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainment up the massive granite Blamann tower on the island of Kvaløya in Norway. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.

On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia

Five interesting rock climbs on Piz Ciavaces and the First Sella Tower, Dolomites, introduced by Mountain Guide Alberto De Giuli.

Luna Nascente, Mani di Fata, Oceano Irrazionale and Vedova Nera, four fantastic rock climbs in the beautiful Val di Mello, introduced by Andrea Gaddi.

Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.

On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.