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Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
19/01/2012 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, interview after Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks
A short interview with Alex Honnold after his first ascent of the boulder Too Big To Flail at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
Dent du Jetoula, first ski descent by Capozzi and Bigio
On 16/01/2012 Davide Capozzi and Stefano Bigio carried out the first ski and snowboard descent of the SE Ridge of the Dent du Jetoula (Mont Blanc range). Details of the ascent by Capozzi.
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
17/01/2012 - Alpinism
Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers
On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).
Verhoeven and Saurwein, more boulders at the Buttermilks, Bishop
17/01/2012 - Climbing
Verhoeven and Saurwein, more boulders at the Buttermilks, Bishop
Another video of Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein bouldering at the Buttermilks, Bishop, USA, where they climbed Evilution Direct and Saigon direct.
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
16/01/2012 - Climbing
Kazikli Canyon, a sport climbing paradise in the Aladaglar, Turkey
Recep Ince introduces the Turkish delights of rock climbing at the Kazikli Canyon in the Ala Daglar region.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
15/01/2012 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2012: Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov win in Korea
The first of five stages of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2012 took place in Cheongsong (Korea) on 14 and 15 January. The Lead event was won by Angelika Rainer and Maxime Tomilov, while the Speed discipline went to the Russians Viktoria Shabalina and Ivan Spitsyn.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.
Immense solitude, the climbing poem by Pessoa
13/01/2012 - Climbing
Immense solitude, the climbing poem by Pessoa
A video which combines the poem by Fernando Pessoa with climbing, interpreted by Lavarda for the Red Bull project Poets in Action.
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
12/01/2012 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the routes I cannot climb!
Czech climber Adam Ondra talks to Planetmountain about the sport climbs he has failed to climb. Hubble, Three Degrees of Separation, Underground and many more.
Paul Robinson tops Meadowlark Lemon, an 8C boulder problem in Nevada
12/01/2012 - Climbing
Paul Robinson tops Meadowlark Lemon, an 8C boulder problem in Nevada
Yesterday at Gateway Canyon in Nevada Paul Robinson freed his boulder problem Meadowlark Lemon 8C, the sitdown variation Meadowlark Lemon Stand.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...
Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, two new extreme boulder problems
10/01/2012 - Climbing
Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, two new extreme boulder problems
In the Rocky Mountain National Park (USA) Daniel Woods has freed Mirror Reality 8B+, while at Toyota in Japan Dai Koyamada has freed Shanbara 8C, a sit start to his Agartha.