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'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
01/04/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
The report by Silvan Schüpbach about the first ascent of 'Luce e Tenebre' on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland, established from 6 - 9 March 2025 together with fellow Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala and Roger Schäli.
Melloblocco 2025, boulders that shine like diamonds in the forest
24/03/2025 - Events
Melloblocco 2025, boulders that shine like diamonds in the forest
Interview with Matteo De Zaiacomo on preparing for the iconic Melloblocco bouldering festival with Andrea Pavan and the entire route-setting team. The meeting is scheduled to take place in Val di Mello - Val Masino from 7 - 10 May 2025.
'Bianco Invisibile' added to Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) by François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni
11/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Bianco Invisibile' added to Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) by François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni
Interview with François Cazzanelli who on 7 March 2025 teamed up with Giuseppe Vidoni to make the first ascent of 'Bianco Invisibile' (800m, 6c, M7, AI5) on the east face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m) in the Mont Blanc massif. The route ends at the col at 3900m.
'Borrowed Time' added to Sloan Peak by Justin Sackett, Michael Telstad
28/02/2025 - Alpinism
'Borrowed Time' added to Sloan Peak by Justin Sackett, Michael Telstad
Justin Sackett and Michael Telstad have made the first ascent of 'Borrowed Time' (WI5 M7 1,900ft) on the West Face of Sloan Peak in the North Cascades, USA.
Hannes Puman interview after 'The Nose' free via Schnaz Variation
13/02/2025 - Interviews
Hannes Puman interview after 'The Nose' free via Schnaz Variation
Interview with Swedish climber Hannes Puman after his free ascent of 'The Nose' on El Capitan in Yosemite via what is known as the Schnaz Variation.
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
06/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Bouin makes first ascent of hardest climb in China
French rock climber Sébastien Bouin has made the first ascent of 'El Gran Cabrón' in the Shegeng Cave in China. Graded 9b, this now stands as the hardest sport climb in the country
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
31/01/2025 - Alpinism
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
Last August, the Italians Daniele Bonzi, Francesco Fumagalli and Thomas Triboli travelled to the Fox Jaw Cirque in East Greenland, where they completed the first traverse of the first three towers: Baby Molar, Molar, and Incisor. Named 'Trident VI Orobica', the route involves 1,000 metres of climbing over 21 pitches,...
New mixed climb on Sciora Dafora in Switzerland by Roger Schäli, Peter von Känel
05/01/2025 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Sciora Dafora in Switzerland by Roger Schäli, Peter von Känel
On 31/12/2024 Swiss mountaineers Roger Schäli and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of 'Methadone' on Sciora Dafora, also referred to as Sciora di Fuori, in Switzerland. This is highly likely to be a winter ascent of a summer climb established in 1974 by D. Erba, G. Maresi and...
Pietro Vidi repeats 'Tribe', Jacopo Larcher's trad masterpiece at Cadarese
02/01/2025 - Climbing
Pietro Vidi repeats 'Tribe', Jacopo Larcher's trad masterpiece at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Italy Pietro Vidi has repeated 'Tribe', one of the most difficult trad climbs in the world, put up in 2019 by Jacopo Larcher.
Jost Kobusch climbs to 7537m on Everest West Ridge winter solo attempt
31/12/2024 - Alpinism
Jost Kobusch climbs to 7537m on Everest West Ridge winter solo attempt
On 27 December 2024 German alpinist Jost Kobusch, currently attempting his extremely ambitious project of climbing the West Ridge of Everest solo and in winter without O2, reached the unprecedented altitude of 7537m.
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Dai Koyamada establishes 'Kaikien' (8C) at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
03/12/2024 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada establishes 'Kaikien' (8C) at Mt. Kasagi in Japan
Japanese climber Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of 'Kaikien' at Mt. Kasagi in Japan. Described as 'the best problem here', the boulder has been graded 8C.
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
27/11/2024 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl frees has made the first free ascent of 'Blutsbrüder', the multipitch he established with Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer in autumn 2022 on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites.
Lara Neumeier, Nemuel Feurle repeat El Niño via Pineapple Express on El Capitan in Yosemite
13/11/2024 - Climbing
Lara Neumeier, Nemuel Feurle repeat El Niño via Pineapple Express on El Capitan in Yosemite
Lara Neumeier from Germany and Nemuel Feurle from Austria have repeated ‘El Niño – Pineapple Express’ (800m, 5.13c) on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite
05/11/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite
On Tuesday 29th of October, Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl repeated 'Magic Line' (5.14c /8c+) in Yosemite Valley, California.
Eva Hammelmüller repeats Hades (9a) at Nassereith in Austria
02/11/2024 - Climbing
Eva Hammelmüller repeats Hades (9a) at Nassereith in Austria
Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller has repeated 'Hades' (9a) at Götterwandl in Nassereith , Austria.

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