Yannick Flohé sends Excalibur (9b+) at Arco

Towards the end of December 2025, Yannick Flohé completed one of his longest projects, Excalibur in Arco. First ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2023, this short and extremely intense testpiece had been repeated so far only by Will Bosi in February 2025 and, two months later, by Brooke Raboutou, who in doing so became the first woman in the world to climb a sport route graded 9b+. Flohé began working the moves shortly after the American climber, and although his attempts were genuinely promising, it ultimately took him 19 sessions. That's almost a record for the 26-year-old German climber who last year sent Ratstaman Vibrations (9b/+) at Céüse shortly after becoming the first person in the world to flash 8C boulder...

EXCALIBUR FREE AT LAST
With Excalibur I finished my second and last remaining lead project. In 2025 my goal was to send Rastaman Vibrations and Excalibur. Rastaman Vibrations I had already tried in 2024 and sent in August 2025. The first time I tried Excalibur was in March 2025 and I made promising links, already climbing to the last crux on my first try from the ground. The lower part suits me really well and I almost never fell before the heel move at the last crux.

However, the last two moves, especially the two finger pocket where I could barely fit my middle finger and index finger, fully crimped with a small spike to crimp my thumb on, were a real challenge, even as individual moves. This move was so low percentage for me that I fell at least twenty times. Without executing that move perfectly, the final move became impossible and I fell there at least twelve times as well.

Over the nineteen sessions I spent on this route, skin, patience, and conditions were the main factors. I had trips where I injured my skin on the first try and then had to rest for four days, only to open the same split again. The difference between resting and trying was not fun at all. On my final trip I planned one day on and three days off to make sure my skin was always in good shape.

It was a frustrating process, with high expectations early on and major setbacks along the way. In the end I almost did not care about sending anymore and just came back each time, giving two or three tries, then returning three days later. Eventually I stuck the last move by a very small margin and was almost surprised when I did. For my next project I will choose a long route with comfortable holds ;-)

- Yannick Flohé, Germany