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Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
24/02/2025 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
From 17 to 21 February 2025, French climber Benjamin Védrines completed a solo winter ascent of the BASE route on the West Face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is now graded VII M8+ and was...
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
07/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has made the fourth free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, it was repeated by Adam Ondra in 2016 and is known as the most difficult big wall climb in the...
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
05/12/2024 - Alpinism
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
The report by Italian mountain guide Saro Costa of his Alpin’ Ticino Project, ie the link-up from 19 to 30 October 2024 of the 42 3000-meter mountains in the Ticino Alps in Switzerland. The only mountain not summited, due to too much snow and lack of daylight, was Kastelhorn.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite
05/11/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Magic Line (8c+) in Yosemite
On Tuesday 29th of October, Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl repeated 'Magic Line' (5.14c /8c+) in Yosemite Valley, California.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest island by sailing boat. Kent provides the details.
Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier 24h Verdon climbing challenge
18/09/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier 24h Verdon climbing challenge
This summer Sébastien Berthe from Belgium and Hugo Parmentier from France attempted to climb 5 major multi-pitches in the Verdon Gorge in a day. The pair report about those grueling 24 hours climbing 1500m of bullet-proof limestone up to 8b.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
07/05/2024 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
The report by Italian mountaineer Leo Gheza who on 29 April, after having cycled 150km, climbed "Opera Buffa" rope solo on Mount Colodri at Arco. Almost 300m high and with difficulties up to 7c+, Gheza climbed the entire route free after attempting the first 5 pitches 3 weeks earlier.
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
Luca Bacer sends Sanjski par ext (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia
11/03/2024 - Climbing
Luca Bacer sends Sanjski par ext (9a) at Mišja Peč in Slovenia
Last week Luca Bacer climbed his first 9a, 'Sanjski par extension' at Mišja Peč in Slovenia. The 25-year-old Italian climber reports.
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
08/02/2024 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).

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